It is once
again that time of the year when we must remember those important words from winemakers
Charles Smith and Charles Bieler who in unison proclaim, “Yes you can drink rosé
and still be a Bad Ass!”
Spring marks
the beginning of rosé season, when wineries release those fresh, delicate pink
wines, and sadly often in very limited amounts. Rosé wines are made from red
grapes. The grape skins have very limited contact with the juice, hence their a
pink color. As a rule, the shorter the contact, the lighter the color. While rosé
can be sweet, off dry, or bone dry, today I’m talking about the decidedly dry
type. The flavors of these wines tend to be subtle versions of their red
varietal coun
terparts – strawberry, cherry, watermelon, and raspberry.
These wines
are perfect for spring and summer, as they are served chilled and they are
probably the most versatile and food friendly wines on the planet. The light
body and delicate flavors make them ideal picnic wines that go well with roast
beef, chicken or ham sandwiches, egg or potato salad, and even chips and dips.
They are great for back yard barbeques, easily handling hamburgers, chicken,
and even steaks. If you are looking for a porch pounder, there is nothing
better than a glass or two of rosé on the back deck on a sunny day—no food
required. They are great values, often being priced in the 10 to 20 dollar
range, so you can enjoy them as often as you like.
Rosé got a
bad reputation after the winemaker at Sutter Home invented White Zinfandel
completely by accident (an arrested fermentation). This initiated a flood of
sweet wine cooler-like blush wines from California that many people mistakenly
think of when they see the rosé section. When I have a rosé tasting at the
store, these same people run the other direction. After I chase them down,
tackle them, and force them to taste MY pink wines, they sheepishly admit they
were very, very wrong, and often end up taking home a bottle or two.
There are
hundreds of rosés on the market, made from a large variety of grapes and from a
large number of countries. Rosé was first made in Provence in southern France,
and a great many beautiful examples come from this area still. The wines from
here tend to be light in color and delicate, elegant examples. Bieler Pere at
Fils ($11.99) from Aix-au-Province is one of our best sellers year in and year
out. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rolle, and Cinsault, the
wine shows aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries with an
underlying herbal note and a refreshing acidity. Mas de La Dame from les Baux
de Province (Grenache, Syrah. Mourvedre, and Cab) offers up red berry and peach
flavors for $15.99. Finally, St. Roche Les Vignes from Cotes de Provence makes
a consistently good one from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault with lush berry
aromas and flavors.
There are
many other countries getting into the production of these pink beauties.
Mulderbosche, $11.99, from coastal South Africa is a rosé of 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon. There is an initial blast of grapefruit on the nose followed by
minerals and strawberries. A sip results in a mouthful of minerally red berries
with a perfectly balanced acidity.
Italy is
making some great rosés, with La Spinetta’s spectacular Il Rose di Casanova
being one of the best rosés anywhere, period. It is made from a blend of
Sangiovese and Prugnolo Gentile. With luscious aromas and flavors of tart
cherry, pomegranate, and honeysuckle, this wine shows a remarkable complexity
and perfect balance. It is not cheap at $24.99, but if you are a lover of these
wines you HAVE to try it.
The U.S. of
course has gotten into the act, and showing particularly good success with
Pinot Noir. Rosés from this thin-skinned temperamental grape are elegant,
harmonious, and well balanced. Copain, Banshee, and Ponzi all make excellent
examples, although they are a little pricey at around $19.00. Finally, if you
want an elegant rosé wrapped in a beautiful package, look for Birichino Vin
Gris. Done in a Provincial style from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Rolle,
this brilliantly bright and crisp wine with its flavors of wild berry, citrus,
and cherry along with the gorgeous label makes you think spring even if you
drink it outside during a blizzard. All for $16.99!
So get in
the pink! Get some of these harbingers of warmer days ahead. You will truly
enjoy them, and whatever you eat with them will taste better than you can
imagine.
Cheers!
