Oregon has
been producing wine since the mid 1800s. Ceasing during Prohibition and
remaining dormant for thirty years after its repeal, winemaking resumed in the
1960s. Production has skyrocketed since, with the number of wineries soaring from
five in 1970 to over 450 today, and Oregon ranks third in the U.S. in wine
made.
Many
varietals are grown, but two together far surpass the total of all the others combined
in plantings and wine produced. Those two are Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The
cool wet winters and warm dry climate with few temperature extremes are ideal
for Pinot Noir, and interestingly, Oregon is at the same latitude as Burgundy,
the world’s greatest Pinot Noir producer.
The most
well known and widely planted area is the Willamette Valley just south of
Portland, but good wines are coming from farther south in the Rogue and Umpqua
valleys.
Since Pinot
Noir does so well, one might think that Chardonnay, the grape of white Burgundy,
might flourish here, but the terroir seems to favor Pinot Gris, although
Chardonnay is third most planted grape.
Pinot Noir
is one of the most difficult grapes to grow and one of the most difficult wines
to produce, but when done, right this grape can produce some of the most
wonderful wines imaginable. It seems to be at its very best in three regions of
the world – California, Burgundy, and Oregon.
The Pinot
Noirs from Burgundy tend to be elegant, delicate, and complex with flavors of
sour cherry and red fruits. There is a generous acidity and minerality – and
unfortunately it can come with a high price tag. Some of the most otherworldly
wines on earth come from Burgundy but can cost several hundred or even several
thousand dollars a bottle. California Pinot Noirs tend to be higher in alcohol,
lower in acidity, and much more fruit forward, with dark fruits often joining
the flavor profile. While some of the best are quite pricey, they tend to be
much more affordable than those from Burgundy.
Oregon Pinot
Noirs are a delightful compromise between California and Burgundy. Like
Burgundy, they tend to have a bit more acid, are elegant and complex, and can
demonstrate a beautiful earthiness that brings out the best in food. The
intensity of fruit tends to be somewhere between the wines of the other two
regions, with some California-like dark fruits showing through. The wines are
lighter bodied than California Pinots but not quite as light bodied as their
Burgundian cousins. Even the prices seem to average somewhere between those of
Burgundy and California.
Producers in
Oregon tend to be smaller, which is probably one of the reasons their wines are
costlier than those from California, but they are worth the price. Some of my
favorites are Halloran Stafford Hill ($19.49), Sass ($20.99), and Patricia
Green (several bottlings from $30-60). Brooks makes a great little wine called
Runaway Red, named for a barrel of wine that fell off the wagon and rolled down
a hill. It sells for $24.99. Joe Dobbes makes wonderful Pinots, and his entry
level Wine by Joe is very good for $19.99. Finally, there is a bargain Pinot
that is one of my best selling event wines, Underwood, for only $11.99 that is
surprisingly good.
Pinot Gris
is a white varietal that originated in France, where it is now grown primarily
in Alsace. A clone was taken to Italy (and later brought to California) where
the grape has flourished under the name Pinot Grigio. Although the grapes are
essentially the same, the wines produced in the two regions are very different.
Italian Pinot Grigios are light bodied, crisp, and fresh with vibrant stone
fruit flavors and floral aromas. The vast majority of California Pinot Grigios are
made in this same style. Pinot Gris from Alsace is much more full bodied,
richer, spicier, and more viscous than its Italian counterpart. While Pinot
Grigios are meant to match with seafood, chicken, and salads, Pinot Gris is
best with heartier fare like salmon, pork, and veal.
Once again,
Oregon seems to be securely in the middle. Pinot Gris from here has the
richness, spice, and texture of those from Alsace, but somehow captures some of
the vibrant fruitiness of the Italian style. The best of both worlds. Try King Estate ($17.99), Sass ($13.99), Van Duzer or Elk Cove for $17.99 and
Acrobat, a bargain for only $10.99.
Oregon Pinot
Gris is a wonderful alternative to other whites and is spectacular with food.
Oregon makes
very good and sometimes stunning Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Next time you are
contemplating having salmon or pork and are looking for that special wine, talk
to your wine guy about this remarkable region.
Cheers!
