OREGON – Bringing Together the Best of Two Worlds

Oregon has been producing wine since the mid 1800s. Ceasing during Prohibition and remaining dormant for thirty years after its repeal, winemaking resumed in the 1960s. Production has skyrocketed since, with the number of wineries soaring from five in 1970 to over 450 today, and Oregon ranks third in the U.S. in wine made.

Many varietals are grown, but two together far surpass the total of all the others combined in plantings and wine produced. Those two are Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The cool wet winters and warm dry climate with few temperature extremes are ideal for Pinot Noir, and interestingly, Oregon is at the same latitude as Burgundy, the world’s greatest Pinot Noir producer.

The most well known and widely planted area is the Willamette Valley just south of Portland, but good wines are coming from farther south in the Rogue and Umpqua valleys.

Since Pinot Noir does so well, one might think that Chardonnay, the grape of white Burgundy, might flourish here, but the terroir seems to favor Pinot Gris, although Chardonnay is third most planted grape.

Pinot Noir is one of the most difficult grapes to grow and one of the most difficult wines to produce, but when done, right this grape can produce some of the most wonderful wines imaginable. It seems to be at its very best in three regions of the world – California, Burgundy, and Oregon.

The Pinot Noirs from Burgundy tend to be elegant, delicate, and complex with flavors of sour cherry and red fruits. There is a generous acidity and minerality – and unfortunately it can come with a high price tag. Some of the most otherworldly wines on earth come from Burgundy but can cost several hundred or even several thousand dollars a bottle. California Pinot Noirs tend to be higher in alcohol, lower in acidity, and much more fruit forward, with dark fruits often joining the flavor profile. While some of the best are quite pricey, they tend to be much more affordable than those from Burgundy.

Oregon Pinot Noirs are a delightful compromise between California and Burgundy. Like Burgundy, they tend to have a bit more acid, are elegant and complex, and can demonstrate a beautiful earthiness that brings out the best in food. The intensity of fruit tends to be somewhere between the wines of the other two regions, with some California-like dark fruits showing through. The wines are lighter bodied than California Pinots but not quite as light bodied as their Burgundian cousins. Even the prices seem to average somewhere between those of Burgundy and California.

Producers in Oregon tend to be smaller, which is probably one of the reasons their wines are costlier than those from California, but they are worth the price. Some of my favorites are Halloran Stafford Hill ($19.49), Sass ($20.99), and Patricia Green (several bottlings from $30-60). Brooks makes a great little wine called Runaway Red, named for a barrel of wine that fell off the wagon and rolled down a hill. It sells for $24.99. Joe Dobbes makes wonderful Pinots, and his entry level Wine by Joe is very good for $19.99. Finally, there is a bargain Pinot that is one of my best selling event wines, Underwood, for only $11.99 that is surprisingly good.

Pinot Gris is a white varietal that originated in France, where it is now grown primarily in Alsace. A clone was taken to Italy (and later brought to California) where the grape has flourished under the name Pinot Grigio. Although the grapes are essentially the same, the wines produced in the two regions are very different. Italian Pinot Grigios are light bodied, crisp, and fresh with vibrant stone fruit flavors and floral aromas. The vast majority of California Pinot Grigios are made in this same style. Pinot Gris from Alsace is much more full bodied, richer, spicier, and more viscous than its Italian counterpart. While Pinot Grigios are meant to match with seafood, chicken, and salads, Pinot Gris is best with heartier fare like salmon, pork, and veal.

Once again, Oregon seems to be securely in the middle. Pinot Gris from here has the richness, spice, and texture of those from Alsace, but somehow captures some of the vibrant fruitiness of the Italian style. The best of both worlds. Try King Estate ($17.99), Sass ($13.99), Van Duzer or Elk Cove for $17.99 and Acrobat, a bargain for only $10.99.

Oregon Pinot Gris is a wonderful alternative to other whites and is spectacular with food.

Oregon makes very good and sometimes stunning Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Next time you are contemplating having salmon or pork and are looking for that special wine, talk to your wine guy about this remarkable region.

Cheers!

Pinot NoirThe World’s Most Difficult Grape—But Worth It!

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varietals in the world. Originating in Burgundy, France, where it is the source of some of the world’s best wines, the grape is now grown in California and Oregon in the U.S., as well as in Chile and New Zealand.

Difficulties with Pinot Noir occur at virtually every step of wine production. It is genetically unstable, and the parent vine can produce offspring that bear fruit totally different in size, aromatics, and even flavor. This has resulted in hundreds of inferior clones that need to be sorted from the good ones. Any affliction that can affect vines occurs commonly in Pinot Noir. Because it leaves early, it is susceptible to spring frost. It is a perfect host to the sharpshooter leafhopper, which causes Pierce’s disease and can wipe out a vineyard in three years. Leaf roll, a viral infection, is common. The vine is not very vigorous so there may be not enough leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds. This plus the fact that the grape is very thin skinned means berries can shrivel quickly and dry out if picked too late.

Pinot Noir is even difficult to ferment. It ferments rapidly and violently, sometimes out of control. Color retention is a common problem because of the thin skins. Finally, a process known as acetification can occur, causing aromatics and flavors present during fermentation and aging to disappear when the wine is bottled.

Pinot Noir prefers cool climates and chalky, well-drained soils. If grown in warm weather, the delicate aromas and flavors don’t develop. Burgundy has just such a climate and terroir. Willamette Valley, Oregon is at the same latitude as Burgundy and has a similarly cool climate. Pinot Noir grows best in cooler regions of California such as Carneros and Russian River. Cool climates are the most varied, so different vintages vary greatly.

So why do vintners bother with such a difficult grape? Because it can make incredibly aromatic, flavorful wines with a perfume of strawberry, raspberry, black cherry, tea, mint, violets, and spices. The flavors (similar to the aromatics) are delicate but can be quite intense. Pinot Noir tends to be a medium bodied wine with soft tannins and a balancing acidity. Done right, it can be like liquid silk—a profound experience. Aging in oak enhances these characteristics beautifully. It is a wonderful food wine, matching well with Salmon, fowl, ham, and lamb.

There are differences among Pinot Noir from Burgundy, California, and Oregon. Burgundies tend to be lower in alcohol, more structured, and less fruit juicy than American wines. They have more earthy and herbal notes and tend to age longer. Many critics feel Burgundy is a better food wine—it accepts food without overwhelming it, and its lower alcohol and slightly higher acidity balances and brings out the nuances in the accompanying dishes. California Pinot Noir tends to be softer, more lush, and more fruit forward, has a higher alcohol and usually less structure. It is a better wine for drinking on its own.

Oregon seems to be somewhere in the middle of the two. The climate is more similar to Burgundy, but the soil is richer and more volcanic. Oregon Pinots differ greatly among themselves, but tend to be more earthy than California Pinots with a complexity sometimes rivaling Burgundy. The fruit forwardness, however, more closely mimics California.

Another difference among the wine from Burgundy, California, and Oregon is the price. Burgundy is the most expensive, with almost nothing drinkable below $20.00 and prices from the best growers starting at $100.00. Domain de la Romanee Conti wines are over $1000.00 per bottle at release, are the most expensive wines in the world, and are sold out every year. However, some Burgundies are quite affordable, like Seguin Gevrey Chambertin at $47.99 and Regis Bouvier Bourgogne en Montre Cul at $29.99.

California does some really nice Pinot Noir in the $15.00 to $25.00 range, such as Wyatt, Au Bon Climate, Block Nineteen, and Banshee. There are some pricier ones that are really awesome. Try Melville Estate for $27.99.

Oregon is making a lot of really great Pinot Noirs, and this grape has become the state’s signature red grape. Holloran makes two wines. The entry level offering, at $22.99, is called Stafford Hill and is my choice for the best Pinot Noir in the store at this price point. The upper level one is only $7.00 more and is a beautiful mix of perfume, flowers, fruit, and earth. There is a small producer called Tyee whose barrel select Pinot is wonderful at $28.99.

New Zealand is becoming as well known as much for its earthy, funky Pinot Noirs as it is for its Marlboro Sauvignon Blancs. Sherwood and Allan Scott are good values at under $20.00 and are fairly typical of Pinots from this country.

Finally, some definite bargains are coming out of Chile, which is known best for its Carmenere and Cabernet. Llai Llai is a nice example for $10.00 and Cantaluna and Root One are in the same price range. These wines are good places to start if your wallet is a bit light because they are true Pinot Noir. Be careful of inexpensive California Pinot Noirs. Syrah is often added generously to the blend (in California to be called a specific varietal the wine must contain only 75% of that grape) so you may get a pleasant, quaffable wine, but it tastes nothing like Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir can be amazing and can be a great wine with dinner or by the glass on your patio. As tricky as it is to grow and make into wine, it can also be tricky to shop for. So ask your wine geek for the best….it will be an awesome experience.