It’s That Pink Time of Year Again

It is once again that time of the year when we must remember those important words from winemakers Charles Smith and Charles Bieler who in unison proclaim, “Yes you can drink rosé and still be a Bad Ass!”

Spring marks the beginning of rosé season, when wineries release those fresh, delicate pink wines, and sadly often in very limited amounts. Rosé wines are made from red grapes. The grape skins have very limited contact with the juice, hence their a pink color. As a rule, the shorter the contact, the lighter the color. While rosé can be sweet, off dry, or bone dry, today I’m talking about the decidedly dry type. The flavors of these wines tend to be subtle versions of their red varietal coun

terparts – strawberry, cherry, watermelon, and raspberry.

These wines are perfect for spring and summer, as they are served chilled and they are probably the most versatile and food friendly wines on the planet. The light body and delicate flavors make them ideal picnic wines that go well with roast beef, chicken or ham sandwiches, egg or potato salad, and even chips and dips. They are great for back yard barbeques, easily handling hamburgers, chicken, and even steaks. If you are looking for a porch pounder, there is nothing better than a glass or two of rosé on the back deck on a sunny day—no food required. They are great values, often being priced in the 10 to 20 dollar range, so you can enjoy them as often as you like.

Rosé got a bad reputation after the winemaker at Sutter Home invented White Zinfandel completely by accident (an arrested fermentation). This initiated a flood of sweet wine cooler-like blush wines from California that many people mistakenly think of when they see the rosé section. When I have a rosé tasting at the store, these same people run the other direction. After I chase them down, tackle them, and force them to taste MY pink wines, they sheepishly admit they were very, very wrong, and often end up taking home a bottle or two.

There are hundreds of rosés on the market, made from a large variety of grapes and from a large number of countries. Rosé was first made in Provence in southern France, and a great many beautiful examples come from this area still. The wines from here tend to be light in color and delicate, elegant examples. Bieler Pere at Fils ($11.99) from Aix-au-Province is one of our best sellers year in and year out. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rolle, and Cinsault, the wine shows aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries with an underlying herbal note and a refreshing acidity. Mas de La Dame from les Baux de Province (Grenache, Syrah. Mourvedre, and Cab) offers up red berry and peach flavors for $15.99. Finally, St. Roche Les Vignes from Cotes de Provence makes a consistently good one from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault with lush berry aromas and flavors.

There are many other countries getting into the production of these pink beauties. Mulderbosche, $11.99, from coastal South Africa is a rosé of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. There is an initial blast of grapefruit on the nose followed by minerals and strawberries. A sip results in a mouthful of minerally red berries with a perfectly balanced acidity.

Italy is making some great rosés, with La Spinetta’s spectacular Il Rose di Casanova being one of the best rosés anywhere, period. It is made from a blend of Sangiovese and Prugnolo Gentile. With luscious aromas and flavors of tart cherry, pomegranate, and honeysuckle, this wine shows a remarkable complexity and perfect balance. It is not cheap at $24.99, but if you are a lover of these wines you HAVE to try it.

The U.S. of course has gotten into the act, and showing particularly good success with Pinot Noir. Rosés from this thin-skinned temperamental grape are elegant, harmonious, and well balanced. Copain, Banshee, and Ponzi all make excellent examples, although they are a little pricey at around $19.00. Finally, if you want an elegant rosé wrapped in a beautiful package, look for Birichino Vin Gris. Done in a Provincial style from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Rolle, this brilliantly bright and crisp wine with its flavors of wild berry, citrus, and cherry along with the gorgeous label makes you think spring even if you drink it outside during a blizzard. All for $16.99!

So get in the pink! Get some of these harbingers of warmer days ahead. You will truly enjoy them, and whatever you eat with them will taste better than you can imagine.

Cheers!

Yes, There ARE great Sparklers that are not French!

After talking about the wonderful sparkling wines from France, it’s important to talk about the great wines from other regions of the world as there are some excellent ones and they are often great value plays.

Spain perhaps offers the best bargains in the wine world and sparkling wines are no exception. These wines are made by the Methode Champenois like their French counterparts (secondary fermentation in the bottle). The grapes are different – Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo being the major varietals. Spanish Cavas are minerally, dry with crisp flavors. The bubbles tend to be a little bigger and more exuberant than the French bubblies, and for this reason, Cavas are one of my two choices when making Mimosas and Bellinis as they stand up to the juice. They are wonderful on their own, though, and the prices are amazing. My favorite is Mercat, which comes as a Brut or a Brut Nature (see last week’s article). There are mineral driven aromas of orchard fruits, with a perfectly balanced acidity. Both are awesome for a mere $13.99. So you can buy it by the case for your New Year’s party and still impress.

Freixenet, in its familiar black bottle, is also a Cava, and is a bargain for making those mimosas at under $10 a bottle. For a mere $22.99 you can get an outstanding Cava, Raventos i Blanc, a beautifully balanced wine with delicate minerally stone fruit aromas and flavors. This will give $40 Champagnes a real run for their money.

There are many fine sparkling wines made in America, especially in California, Washington and..…New Mexico. The Gruet family, owners of a champagne house in France, were vacationing in the American Southwest when they ran into a group of vintners in Truth Or Consequences, New Mexico. They gave it a whirl and now make a wide array of wonderful sparkling wines priced at about $16.99. They are all good, but for those liking sweeter wines, the Demi Sec is one of this country’s best and their Brut Rose is outstanding.

California has many estates that make good sparkling wines in partnership with French houses. Mumm Napa, Domain Carneros (with Tattinger), Chandon, and Piper Sonoma all make good sparkling wines in the $15-20 range. Schramsburg makes beautiful sparklers, and they are vintage wines. The Blanc de Blancs was served at Nixon’s “Toast to Peace” with China’s Premier Zhou Enlai in 1972 and has been served at state functions by just about every administration since. Priced at $29.99, these wines are an excellent alternative to $40 and $50 Champagnes. Roederer Estate makes a great Brut for $20 and a more costly ($50) L’Ermitage Vintage version that is really, REALLY good.

Treveri is a family owned estate in the Columbia Valley in Washington State, and their sparklers are fantastic for the price. They make a Brut and an Extra Brut with zero dosage (meaning very, VERY dry) that drink like they cost $30 or $40 instead of the $13.49 price tag.

All of the above wines are made in the traditional method, but another group of sparkling wines from Italy are made in a different way. The secondary fermentation is done in tanks and then the wine is bottled, the so called Charmat method. This is less expensive, and these wines, called Prosecco, are great values. The grape used is called Glera, and although most are called Brut, there is enough residual sugar to make them somewhere between a Brut and an Extra Dry. The bubbles are big and exuberant, which, along with the low price, make Prosecco ideal for Mimosas and “Champagne cocktails.” La Marca, at $12.49, is a top seller as is Cavit’s Lunetta for the same price. My favorites are Le Coulture Sylvoz, a true Brut at $12.49, and probably the best one made, Alice (pronounced a-LEECH-ae). This estate is owned by a woman, the winemaker is a woman, and the wine is named after the owner’s grandmother. The bubbles are surprisingly fine and there are wonderful flavors of stone fruit and minerals. The label is even elegant in this $22.99 wine.

New Year’s is a time for celebrating what was and what is to be. Hopefully this and my previous installment will help you in your endeavors to do so. I, as well as the staff at Liquor Mart, want to wish you all the happiest holiday season and the happiest of New Years. I am looking forward to another year of writing what I hope are enjoyable and informative articles to help expand your wine knowledge and appreciation.

Meritage—California’s answer to Claret

Bordeaux, France is well known as one of the world’s greatest wine producing regions. The red wines from Bordeaux (known as Claret by the British) are almost all blended wines and can contain one or more of only the following grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carmenere. Carmenere is rarely used anymore because of difficulty getting it to ripen. It has been introduced to Chile, where it has become that country’s signature red grape.

In 1988, a group of Napa Valley vintners banded together and petitioned the BTFA to allow them to start a brand for a blend that would be considered on par with single varietal wines. The group sponsored a contest to name the brand and 6000 people responded. The winning name was “Meritage”, a cross between “heritage” and “merit.” Although many people try to pronounce it “mer-eh-TAZH”, the proper pronunciation rhymes with “heritage.”

For “Meritage” to be on the label, the wine must have only the allowed Bordeaux grape varietals with no more than 90% being any one varietal, and the winery must be a member of the Meritage Alliance.

There are a great many of these wines on the shelves, and many of them are outstanding. Some are labeled Meritage, some call themselves Claret, and some have names that don’t suggest their blend. They can be very structured and complex, resembling the French wines they are patterned after. They tend to be more fruit forward and less earthy than Bordeaux and are usually less tannic, although the latter characteristic varies widely. They are great wines to have with roasted, grilled, and braised red meats, game, and strongly flavored hard cheeses.

Marietta Cellars, maker of the very popular Old Vine Red, has just released a new wine called Arme’ that is outstanding. Primarily Cabernet with some Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec, this wine has wonderful aromatics of red fruits, mocha, and espresso. There is cassis and red cherry fruit on the palate supported by superbly integrated but ample tannins. This is worth every bit of the $24.99 price tag. The same four grapes are used in Coppola’s Diamond Collection Claret producing wonderful plum, blackberry, anise, and espresso aromas and flavors. Supple tannins make this very approachable, and at $15.99, it is a great bargain.

Newton Claret 2010 is a delicious wine made from Merlot, Cabernet, and Petit Verdot. Aromas of mocha, expresso, and dark red cherries are followed by vanilla, red fruit, and plum on the palate. Supporting tannins add just enough complexity and structure to balance the fruit. 

Finally, Lyeth Merita 2011, made from the all five of the classic Bordeaux grapes, demonstrates aromas of black cherry and currants with subtle notes of dark chocolate. Flavors of cassis and boysenberries are prominent on the palate with a hint of roasted coffee joining on the ample finish. There are supporting but not interfering tannins giving a good backbone to this surprisingly inexpensive wine ($14.99).

It is possible to enjoy the structure and complexity of Cabernet based blends without heading for the Bordeaux section, especially if one prefers the bigger fruit of New world wines to the mineral driven, less fruit forward style of old world wines.

Zinfandel – “America’s Grape”

The red varietal Zinfandel is planted in over 10% of California’s vineyards. It produces a robust, fruit forward wine that is very popular in America as well as a semi sweet red blush (White Zinfandel) which is even more so. Although many writers in the late nineteenth and twentieth century liked to refer to it as “America’s grape”, it did not originate here.

After finding similarities between Zinfandel and Primitivo, an Italian varietal found in Puglia, Italy (on the map of Italy this region is ‘the heel of the boot”) the two grapes were found to be genetically identical in 1933. Further historical and genetic research led to the theory that both grapes were brought to their respective countries from, of all places, Croatia. Then in 2003, they were  genetically proven to be an offspring of the grape known as Crljenak Kastelanski, a total of nine vines bearing this grape being found in a single vineyard in Kastel Novi, Croatia.

The varietal was introduced from Hungary to the east coast of the US in 1829 where it was grown in hothouses and prized for its early ripening (hence Primitivo’s being named for being the first grape to ripen). It was brought to California in the 1850s during the Gold Rush where it exploded in popularity, becoming the most widely planted grape in California.

During Prohibition, many of the vines were ripped up and replaced with Petite Sirah and Alicant Bouchet, which transported more easily for home winemaking. Zinfandel was largely forgotten, being used mainly for bulk fortified wines, but some producers with very old vines wanted to keep the varietal alive.

One such producer was Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home, who in 1972 decided to make a rose of Zinfandel and sell it under the name of Oeil de Perdix. He legally was required to change the name to White Zinfandel. In 1975 he experienced a stuck fermentation. This occurs when the yeast dies before the sugar is completely converted to alcohol, resulting a lower alcohol somewhat sweet wine. He sold it anyway and it was an instant hit that made him a wealthy man. Modern day white Zinfandel still a very popular wine. The popularity of the wine also saved many of the old vines from being ripped up in premium growing areas  until red Zinfandel came back into fashion and they came to their own.

Zinfandel vines are vigorous and do best in warm but not hot climates. If the climate is too hot the grapes ripen too quickly and become over ripe with a raisin like quality. Also the high sugar levels result in wines becoming very high in alcohol in order to be fermented to dryness. High alcohol can result in a “heat” to the wine. Many Zinfandels can reach alcohol levels of over 16%.

Red Zinfandels are very popular wines. The big fruit flavors make it an ideal barbeque wine and it is easy drinking on its own.  It goes very well with glazed ham at Easter. The wine does pick up variable characteristics  of its terroir. Those from Dry Creek in Sonoma tend toward bright fruit, balanced acidity, and blackberry anise and pepper on the palate. Dashe, at $19.99, is one of my favorite Zinfandels, with complex black fruit flavors intertwined with pepper and earth.

Zinfandel from Napa Valley tends more toward red fruits, cedar and vanilla. Storybook Mountain, at a weighty price of $43.99, is probably the best Zinfandel I’ve ever had. It is almost Cab-like with remarkable finesse and balance between fruit, acid and tannin.

Sonoma’s Russian River Valley tends to have a cooler climate, resulting in slightly lower alcohol, spicy wines with more red fruit.  Deloach is an excellent example from  here for $16.99. Lodi, home of some of the oldest plantings produces Zinfandels rich in dark fruits and can be somewhat complex, but can tend toward overipeness. Lodi is the source of many Zinfandels with Michael-David winery’s Earthquake leading the way at $25.99, its massive fruit exploding on the palate. Also very good is The Zin ($19.99) and Brazin at $17.99. There are many very nice Zinfandels that are designated “Sonoma County” so the fruit is sourced Dry Creek, Russian River and other places as well.  Seghesio’s is especially good at $18.99 and Ridge’s Three Valley at $25.99 is very complex and full of fruit.

 If you like big, full bodied flavorful wines you have to try Zinfandel if you already haven’t. You will see why although it can’t correctly be called “America’s Wine” it can be called one of America’s most popular. Enjoy!

Wines for Halloween

With Halloween coming up, there is the inevitable party or dinner that screams for fun labels. Luckily there are a host of Halloween friendly labels out there that identify some very good wines. Vampire Merlot 2012 is a perfect party wine, with soft supple tannins supporting bright fruit flavor and a hint of vanilla from the French and American oak used in its aging, and costing $10.99. Next up is Spellbound Petite Sirah 2012 , and it is a bargain at $13.99. Petite Sirah is a grape that produces big, often very tannic wines, but this one is very approachable. There aromatics of black fruits, vanilla and coffee. On the palate there is lush black fruit with supple tannins lending just the right amount of support. This is a really nice wine.

Charles Smith is a very irreverent winemaker form Washington who makes big flavorful wines. His Velvet Devil Merlot 2011, at only $11.99, is typical of his and of Washington state wines – jammy,  and big on fruit and flavor. There are aromas of dark cherries, cedar and tobacco. When you take a sip, black fruit and chocolate covered cherries comes to mind. The tannins are soft, making for a very easy drinking wine.

Michael David winery  from Graton, California, is a very hot winery right now. They are known for their Seven Deadly Zins, Sixth Sense Syrah, Petite Petit, and their Earthquake series, all big bold fruit driven wines. Their Incognito wines, with the simple mask on the label, are no different. The red is a blend of primarily Rhone Varietals (up to eight different ones) and is full of fruit and spice. The white is a full bodied Viognier based blend with rich flavor and decent acidity for this varietal if grown in California. These wines run about $18  and are worth it.

Ghost Pines is actually a separate label owned and bottled by the Louis Martini Winery, known for its luscious Cabernet Sauvignons. Several varietals are found under this label, but my favorite by far is the Zinfandel. California Zinfandels can sometimes be overblown and hot with high alcohol levels and almost a raisiny quality from over ripened fruit. Ghost Pines has a more laid back and elegant style that is very enjoyable and makes it very food friendly. It is worth the $17.99 price tag (a bit high for a California Zinfandel unless you are looking at Turley, Storybook Mountain and Ridge, wines that can top out over $40).

In 2009, three college buddies form the Midwest and the East Coast met up in California, pooled their money and made a Pinot Noir from purchased grapes. The wine sold out in three months and by the end of the year Banshee wines was their full time pursuit.  While they bottle several varietals, the Sonoma Pinot Noir 2011 and the Mordecai Red Blend are particularly noteworthy. The Pinot has tons of red fruit, but also has the earthiness and complexity to back it up. This is an excellent wine for the $22.99 price tag. The Mordecai is a true kitchen sink wine…containing something like thirteen different varietals. The main grape is Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Syrah for spice, some Grenache for red fruit and some Mourvedre for a lift. All the others add complexity and richness – Bordeaux meets the Rhone. This is about as much flavor you can fit in your mouth for $22.99.

Last, and by all means not least, are Reaper Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 and Pinot Noir 2012. These are the wines you’ll want to pour for your Halloween dinner. The truly macabre labels (complete with blood red faux wax capsules) will certainly catch the attention of everyone at the table. The Cabernet is made by Jake Bilbo, the owner of Limerick Lane and Marietta Cellars wineries. The grapes come from the famed Chalk Hill appellation, one of California’s greatest sources of this varietal.  The nose is of super rich black fruit, leather and tar. On the palate there is a mouthful of blackberry and mocha with vanilla notes from the oak. Well balanced and utterly delicious, it is well worth the $33.99 price tag. The Pinot Noir is even better. Made by Pinot Goddess Penny Coral Gadd-Coster of J vineyards fame, there are aromatics and flavors of cherry, pomegranate, strawberry, and persimmon with notes of earthy mushroom and sweet herbs.  This is what California Pinot Noir is supposed to taste like. $27.99 will seem cheap after you taste this wine.

Hopefully I’ve been able to scare up (sorry) a couple of good ideas for Halloween at your house. Just because the atmosphere may be frightening, there’s no reason the wines have to taste that way. Enjoy!

A Grape You should Know About – Petite Sirah

In the 1860s, French botanist Francois Durif  went into his nursery where he was growing Syrah and Peloursin and he saw another vine growing, a new cross between the two. The new grape was called (not surprisingly) Durif and because of its resistance to mildew was planted in the south of France. However, the wines that were produced were inferior, so the grape fell out of favor and is rarely seen in France at present.

The grape was introduced to Australia where it is still called Durif, and to California and Israel where it came to be known as Petite Sirah. The grape became very popular during the American Prohibition because it is very durable and along with Alicant Bouchet could be transported around the country for home wine making. In fact, by the Repeal in 1923, two thirds of all plantings in Napa were to these two grapes. Some of the oldest vineyards in California are planted to Petite Sirah.

During these early years, field blending was common and often a bit of Alicante Bouchet, Zinfandel, Mourvedre, or Peloursin can be found in these vineyards as well as genetic naturally occurring crosses between them. As a result few Petite Sirah vineyards are “pure” and the wines produced are technically blends. It is estimated that 90-95% of Petite Sirah in California is actually the original Durif.

The wines from these vineyards are so similar that the single varietal designation is indeed justified.

Petite Sirah gets its name from the small size of the grapes which result in a large skin to juice ratio. This, in turn, can result very tannic wines if juice goes through an extended maceration period. The grapes form tightly packed clusters so are prone to rot if grown in rainy environments. French oak is often used in aging these wines, softening the tannins and imparting chocolate overtones to the aromatics.

Petite Sirah produces dark, inky colored wines that are relatively acidic with firm texture and mouth feel. The bouquet has herbal, chocolate and black pepper overtones. On the palate, these wines offer flavors of black fruits, plums, vanilla and especially blueberries. It is darker than Syrah, the grape it is often confused with, and is typically rounder and fuller in the mouth. The wine tends to have a wonderful brightness because of the ample acidity. This same acidity along with the well developed tannins allow this wine to age gracefully, often improving in the bottle for several years. If there is one flaw in this otherwise excellent wine, it is the rather short finish that the wine can have. For this reason, Zinfandel or Petite Verdot is often blended in small amounts to lengthen the finish and complete the wine. 

Petite Sirah is often combined  with other grapes to produce some of California's most well known red blends. The Prisoner, Marietta Old Vine Red and Bogle Phantom all have significant amounts of this grape in their mix. These are all big, fruit forward wines that are a mouthful of flavor. Especially in years where rains or poor growing seasons lessen the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah is often added in small amounts to give deeper color and more backbone. It is also added to Zinfandel to help overcome the  “overdone” almost raisiny quality, that can sometimes occur in this varietal

Despite being a commonly blended grape and one used to improve or repair other varietal wines, Petite Sirah is truly special on its own. We have lots of these wines on the shelf. When someone comes in who drinks and enjoys red Zinfandel or Aussie Shiraz, I often suggest that they try this varietal. The big fruit flavor that these people enjoy will be enhanced by more complexity and structure. Newer techniques of developing fruit concentration and flavor has allowed for shorter maceration times resulting in wines with tannins that support nicely the fruit rather than overpowering it. Finally the acidity  adds a vibrance to the wine that is often missing in Zins and Syrah.

 

Bogle makes a really nice example of this varietal for the cost of a mere $11.99. the typical characteristic blueberries on the palate is unmistakeable. Actually, of all the wines Bogle makes at the entry level, this is by far my favorite. Peirano Estate, at $13.99 and David Bruce at $22.99 are good ones to try as well.

The one that you can't miss, however, is Michael David Winery's Petite Petit. You will recognize it by the whimsical circus themed label with large elephants. A blend of 85% Petite Sirah and 15% Petite Verdot, this wine offers an explosion of black fruit, vanilla and of course, blueberries,  that coat the mouth offering remarkable richness and a lingering finish. This dense, full bodied whopper of a wine is a must have at $17.99. The same winery makes a more expensive wine, called Earthquake Petite Sirah, which is what your palate will feel like it got hit by when you get a mouthful of this monster. Knock your socks off with this one for about $25.99.

Petite Sirah is a wine everyone should try, as well as the blends that this grape is so influencial in. I'm willing to bet you'll come back looking for more

Pinot NoirThe World’s Most Difficult Grape—But Worth It!

Pinot Noir is one of the oldest grape varietals in the world. Originating in Burgundy, France, where it is the source of some of the world’s best wines, the grape is now grown in California and Oregon in the U.S., as well as in Chile and New Zealand.

Difficulties with Pinot Noir occur at virtually every step of wine production. It is genetically unstable, and the parent vine can produce offspring that bear fruit totally different in size, aromatics, and even flavor. This has resulted in hundreds of inferior clones that need to be sorted from the good ones. Any affliction that can affect vines occurs commonly in Pinot Noir. Because it leaves early, it is susceptible to spring frost. It is a perfect host to the sharpshooter leafhopper, which causes Pierce’s disease and can wipe out a vineyard in three years. Leaf roll, a viral infection, is common. The vine is not very vigorous so there may be not enough leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds. This plus the fact that the grape is very thin skinned means berries can shrivel quickly and dry out if picked too late.

Pinot Noir is even difficult to ferment. It ferments rapidly and violently, sometimes out of control. Color retention is a common problem because of the thin skins. Finally, a process known as acetification can occur, causing aromatics and flavors present during fermentation and aging to disappear when the wine is bottled.

Pinot Noir prefers cool climates and chalky, well-drained soils. If grown in warm weather, the delicate aromas and flavors don’t develop. Burgundy has just such a climate and terroir. Willamette Valley, Oregon is at the same latitude as Burgundy and has a similarly cool climate. Pinot Noir grows best in cooler regions of California such as Carneros and Russian River. Cool climates are the most varied, so different vintages vary greatly.

So why do vintners bother with such a difficult grape? Because it can make incredibly aromatic, flavorful wines with a perfume of strawberry, raspberry, black cherry, tea, mint, violets, and spices. The flavors (similar to the aromatics) are delicate but can be quite intense. Pinot Noir tends to be a medium bodied wine with soft tannins and a balancing acidity. Done right, it can be like liquid silk—a profound experience. Aging in oak enhances these characteristics beautifully. It is a wonderful food wine, matching well with Salmon, fowl, ham, and lamb.

There are differences among Pinot Noir from Burgundy, California, and Oregon. Burgundies tend to be lower in alcohol, more structured, and less fruit juicy than American wines. They have more earthy and herbal notes and tend to age longer. Many critics feel Burgundy is a better food wine—it accepts food without overwhelming it, and its lower alcohol and slightly higher acidity balances and brings out the nuances in the accompanying dishes. California Pinot Noir tends to be softer, more lush, and more fruit forward, has a higher alcohol and usually less structure. It is a better wine for drinking on its own.

Oregon seems to be somewhere in the middle of the two. The climate is more similar to Burgundy, but the soil is richer and more volcanic. Oregon Pinots differ greatly among themselves, but tend to be more earthy than California Pinots with a complexity sometimes rivaling Burgundy. The fruit forwardness, however, more closely mimics California.

Another difference among the wine from Burgundy, California, and Oregon is the price. Burgundy is the most expensive, with almost nothing drinkable below $20.00 and prices from the best growers starting at $100.00. Domain de la Romanee Conti wines are over $1000.00 per bottle at release, are the most expensive wines in the world, and are sold out every year. However, some Burgundies are quite affordable, like Seguin Gevrey Chambertin at $47.99 and Regis Bouvier Bourgogne en Montre Cul at $29.99.

California does some really nice Pinot Noir in the $15.00 to $25.00 range, such as Wyatt, Au Bon Climate, Block Nineteen, and Banshee. There are some pricier ones that are really awesome. Try Melville Estate for $27.99.

Oregon is making a lot of really great Pinot Noirs, and this grape has become the state’s signature red grape. Holloran makes two wines. The entry level offering, at $22.99, is called Stafford Hill and is my choice for the best Pinot Noir in the store at this price point. The upper level one is only $7.00 more and is a beautiful mix of perfume, flowers, fruit, and earth. There is a small producer called Tyee whose barrel select Pinot is wonderful at $28.99.

New Zealand is becoming as well known as much for its earthy, funky Pinot Noirs as it is for its Marlboro Sauvignon Blancs. Sherwood and Allan Scott are good values at under $20.00 and are fairly typical of Pinots from this country.

Finally, some definite bargains are coming out of Chile, which is known best for its Carmenere and Cabernet. Llai Llai is a nice example for $10.00 and Cantaluna and Root One are in the same price range. These wines are good places to start if your wallet is a bit light because they are true Pinot Noir. Be careful of inexpensive California Pinot Noirs. Syrah is often added generously to the blend (in California to be called a specific varietal the wine must contain only 75% of that grape) so you may get a pleasant, quaffable wine, but it tastes nothing like Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir can be amazing and can be a great wine with dinner or by the glass on your patio. As tricky as it is to grow and make into wine, it can also be tricky to shop for. So ask your wine geek for the best….it will be an awesome experience.

Easter Wines

Easter means a food fest and a food fest means good wine.

Ham

One of the most popular main courses for Easter is, of course, ham. Ham is not as easy to match as you might think, although the mix of sweet and salt brings some great possibilities. For the white drinker, Riesling is an excellent choice. Get one with just a touch of sweetness, which rounds out the saltiness and has the good acidity to support the sweetness and fruit of the wine. My choice from Washington is Kung Fu Girl. From Germany, go with a Kabinett, like Dr. Loosen Blue Slate ($20.99.) Another white to try is Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer from Alsace. Big fruit, spice, and a bit of residual sugar work very well with the ham.

For the red drinker, a big fruit-forward wine works well, such as a California Zinfandel.  Seven Deadly Zins or Dashe are good examples. Even better would be a Nero D’Avola or Negroamaro form southern Italy. These are similar to Zinfandels only a little lighter on the alcohol, a little earthier, and a little more elegant. Occhipinti’s TAMI Nero D’Avola is awesome at $18.99 and N Zero is a $12.99 Negroamaro that will make your ham wonderful.

Lamb

If you are lucky enough to live in a house where your wife doesn’t think lambs are too cute to cook, then nothing is better for Easter dinner. As far as I’m concerned, the perfect match for lamb is a red from the northern Rhone. These earthy Syrahs bring out the gamey rich flavor of the lamb like nothing else can. J.L. Chave is one of the Rhone’s great producers, and his Croze-Hermitage Silene ($27.99) or his St. Joseph  Offerus ($29.99) will guarantee a return invitation to dinner. For less money, a southern Cotes du Rhone blend such as Chateau Pesquie Terrasses ($15.99) will do fine.  If you don’t want French, a nice Spanish Rioja like Zuazo Gaston ($14.99) or a big Nebbiolo such as Dominico Clerico’s Capisme-E 

($37.99) are excellent choices.

Prime Rib

A marbled prime rib literally screams out for a big tannic wine like a California mountain Cabernet. Staglin’s 2007 Salus at $89.00 is epic, but Mt Veeder ($35.99) and Educated Guess ($20.99) are both very nice. Even better is Aglianico, a tannic, rustic monster from southern Italy. San Martino’s SIIR at $19.99 is a true bargain. Taurasi is the world’s greatest expression of this grape. If you brought a bottle of Mastroberardino Radici 2006 ($63.99) to my house, you’d get a lifetime invitation to dinner anytime you want. But you don’t have to spend a lot of money to enjoy your prime rib properly. 1907 Madiran from southwestern France (home of the Tannat grape) is a wonderful accompaniment for a whopping $12.99.

Brunch

Last but not least, Easter Brunch. If you are looking forward to those mimosas, Spanish Cavas and Proseccos are great bang for your buck and they have big exuberant bubbles that will stand up to your O.J. Sonim is a great Cava for $13.99 and Le Colture Sylvoz at $12.99 is my favorite Prosecco for the job. Don’t bring a nice Champagne from France. The very fine bubbles will flatten in about ten seconds if you add O.J., peach nectar, or Kirsch…very unimpressive indeed.

These are by no means your only choices, especially if you’re having a different or unique food for Easter. And for dessert? You may have to consider a nice Port for all that chocolate.

Above all, though you may not eat responsibly, please drink that way. Happy Easter!