Forgotten French Grapes – Moved on to “Better” Places?

When customers ask me where the Malbecs are,  I always respond with another question— Argentinian or French?  They look at me quizzically, as though I have no idea what I’m talking about.  I could respond the same way if they asked about Tannat, but no one ever inquires about that wonderful grape.

Many grapes originate in one country but later are found to grow wonderfully in another country and often result in wines completely different from the originals. These wines are fun to compare in “terroir tastings.”

Malbec is an excellent example. This grape originated in Cahors, France and is grown throughout Bordeaux. It’s one of the five grapes that can be blended into the great wines from that region. Wines from Cahors consist mostly of Malbec with a small contribution from another varietal, usually Merlot. These wines are complex, structured with layers of fruit and moderate to fairly big tannins.  Nice examples are Chateau Saint Sernin, Clos La Coutale and Domaine de Cause, all under $20.00. Malbec was later brought to Argentina where it produces massively fruit forward, low tannin wines of medium complexity that are easy drinking, user friendly, and inexpensive. Good examples to try are Durigutti, Renacer Punto Final and  Catena.

Carmenere originated in France and is known as the “forgotten Bordeaux varietal.” It is the sixth grape that is allowed to be blended into Bordeaux, although it has nearly disappeared from that region due to difficulty with ripening. It was brought to Chile, where it prospers. It results in wines with a nose of leather, spice, and chocolate and deep black and blue fruit flavors mixed with spice and pepper. Very nice examples are Odfjell Orzada and Apaltagua.

When the book The Red Wine Diet, which discussed the benefits of red wine on heart health, was published, the author spoke of Tannat, the major grape found in Madiran wines from Southwestern France. Madirans tend to be quite tannic, rustic, and complex. The fiercely tannic Tannat grape is usually blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc resulting in much softer wines. A great example is 1907, an incredibly complex wine for only $13.00. This grape was brought to South America by Basque immigrants where it has flourished. In fact, it is now the national grape of Uruguay. It also grows well in Argentina. The resulting wine is much more fruit forward and less tannic than Madiran, with lots of dark fruit flavor. A nice is example is made by Rodolfo.

Lots of other grapes move to other places and do well. Grenache originated in Spain and now flourishes in southern France and in Australia, Syrah is everywhere. Zinfandel, known as “America’s grape,” actually originated in Croatia, traveling to America where it is known as Zinfandel, and to Italy where it is known as Primitivo.

So try the same varietal from various parts of the globe. You’ll find out what a difference soil, climate, altitude, and differing winemaking techniques make.  And you’ll no doubt uncover some new favorites!

DRINK TO YOUR HEALTH...LITERALLYMadiran—No Spoonful of Sugar Required for this Medicine to go Down

Madiran is a small village in Basque-influenced southwest France just north of the Pyrenees. It is also an appellation, and it gained worldwide attention when Roger Corder published his 2007 book The Red Wine Diet and recommended Madiran wines as the most heart healthy in the world.

Corder’s research revealed that red wines contain procyanidin, an antioxidant that prevents heart disease. The Tannat grape, the basis of red Madiran wines, has more procyanidin than any other grape. Coincidentally, the lifespan of men in the Madiran district is among the highest in the world.

The Tannat grape produces tannic, complex wines with rich dark fruit and raspberry flavors and aromas of spice, coffee and vanilla. These wines have had a reputation of being fiercely tannic, requiring years of aging before being drinkable. Now, Tannat is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc which softens the tannin and results in a much more approachable wine.

Another way to soften tannins is a process called micro-oxygenation, introduced in 1991 specifically for Tannat grapes. Oxygen is introduced into fermenting wine in a controlled manner. This results in polymerization of the tannins into larger molecules which are perceived as softer.

1907 Madiran (Producteurs Plainmont and Cave Crousilles) is a spectacular example of the level of flavor, structure, and complexity these wines can reach at a $15.00 price tag. It is a blend of 70% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc.

The nose of spice, coffee, and cocoa is followed by a blast of dark fruits and raspberries layered against a background of tannin, licorice, minerals, and a beautiful acidity. The result is a remarkably complex wine for the price. Its unusual combination of power and freshness makes it a spectacular match for grilled steaks or barbecued ribs on the back deck.

The 1907 is named for the year the appellation was first defined. It is produced by independent growers jointly with two cooperatives.

Basques immigrating to South America brought Tannat there, and it is now widely grown and has, in fact, become the national grape of Uruguay. The wines there are much fruitier and less tannic, and  although good, are very different than the beautiful Tannats from Madiran, especially the 1907.

1907 Madiran is a must have wine. Find it and buy it—lots of it. As good as it now, it’ll probably be even better next year.

To your health!