Chenin Blanc—It must be Important—There’s a Day Named for It!

Friday, June 12 is Chenin Blanc Day, a day to appreciate and learn more about this remarkable grape. Chenin Blanc, originating in the Anjou region of the Loire Valley in Northwestern France, unfortunately became known as a bland grape used mainly for blending into jug wines in America in the early years of its production here.

Chenin Blanc is well known primarily for its high acidity. It also is notorious for its very high vigor and tendency to overproduce. When this happens, the wine becomes bland, neutral, and uninteresting. Consequently, when its growth is unchecked and the vines are grown on fertile soils, large numbers of grapes are produced. This is what occurred in California, resulting in large amounts of cheap neutral juice to blend with other white varietals to increase the acidity of the resulting wine.

When the soils are less fertile, especially those consisting of limestone and silex, and growth is controlled by grafting vines onto less productive rootstock and/or with generous early pruning, production drops to less than a fifth of what is possible, producing much more concentrated and complex flavors. This is how things are done in the Loire Valley, where excellent winemaking techniques, terroir, and climate come together to produce the world’s most well known, and arguably the best, Chenin Blanc.

Because of the high acidity, Chenin Blanc can be made into a variety of styles, from sparkling to dry, off dry, and even well balanced sweet dessert wines. To get the proper balance of fruit and acidity in the rather unpredictable cool climate of the Loire, the grapes are often harvested in stages with three to six passes made through the vineyards, extending the harvest season to up to a length of four to six weeks.

Chenin Blanc is grown in other regions of the world, but today, major plantings occur mostly in South Africa with some plantings still in California, South America, and a small amount in New Zealand. It is the most planted varietal in South Africa, where it is known as Steen. Like California, original plantings were geared towards high production, mainly to be a cheap source of wine to combat scurvy among sailors rounding the Cape of Good Hope on their way back and forth from Asia. Production has since been controlled, and the wines are now much more complex and interesting.

Chenin Blanc at its best produces wines with aromas of acacia, quince, and honey, with flavors of apple, quince, and pear, a bracing acidity, and wonderful chalky minerality. The Loire Valley seems to do it best with the appellations of Anjou, Vouvray, and especially Savennieres, producing beautiful examples. Winemakers in California have now turned from quantity to quality with some excellent single varietal wines being made from the grape, and good ones are coming from South Africa as well. In New Zealand, where Sauvignon Blanc plantings are very small and dwindling, there are a few producers on the North Island that are making outstanding examples.

There are several great Chenin Blancs to look for when exploring your wine shop aisle. Francois Pinon makes an outstanding Sparkling Vouvray. Made by the methode traditionelle, it rivals any mid level Champagne for half the price at $22.99. From the same producer is Vouvray Les Trois Argilles, at $19.99, a slightly sweet wine with great depth on the palate with honeyed and herbal notes that linger on the finish. There is a perfect underlying acidity to balance the delicate sweetness. Clos Le Vigneau is a dry Vouvray that is delicious at $19.99. Domain du Closel La Jalousie 2013 from Savennieres, is from one of the Loire’s very finest estates with mineral driven aromas and flavors of peach, fresh herbs and citrus. This is an awesome wine that is well worth the $31.99 price tag.

Millton is a producer in New Zealand that makes Chenin Blancs that rival those of the Loire Valley. The entry level Crazy By Nature is a flinty mouthful of rich stone fruit and citrus, with honey and flowers on the nose, and is a steal at $19.99. The Te Arai from the same maker is a single vineyard example that is packed with intense flavors of pear, citrus, and fresh cream and honey wrapped in a full, opulent texture. This is a stunning wine at $30.99.

California chimes in with a couple of good value wines. Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier is a blend that is one of my best selling event wines when ABC (anything but Chardonnay) people are looking for medium bodied wines. Beautiful floral aromas and stone fruit on the palate with just the right acidity make this a great value at $10.99. Dry Creek does a great job with Chenin Blanc as a single varietal for only $12.99, showing the world that California CAN do a good job with this grape if it wants to.

We are celebrating Chenin Blanc Day with a tasting at the store including several of the wines mentioned here. So if you are in town from four until six p.m., stop in and see us. If you are not, organize your own tasting…and come to appreciate this great varietal.

Cheers!

The Garden of FranceWines from the Loire Valley

Also known as the “cradle of the French Language,” the Loire Valley gets the above nickname from the vast vineyards and orchards interspersed among over three hundred historical chateaux. The vineyards extend from the Muscadet region near Nantes on the Atlantic coast (known as the Lower Loire), through the Middle Loire (Anjou, Saumur, Bourgeuil, Chinon, Cheverny and Vouvray), to the Upper Loire (Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé), near the city of Orléans.

The vast majority of white wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne, and almost all the reds from Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Pinot Noir and Gamay. Although mostly still wines are made, Crémant de Loire, a sparkling wine made primarily from Chenin Blanc is second only to Champagne in total bottles produced in France.

The Romans first planted vines along the Loire in the first century, and by the High Middle ages the region produced  the most esteemed wines in France and England, more so than even Bordeaux. The Loire River has a significant effect on the immediate climate, adding the few degrees in temperature to make viticulture possible so far north. Frost in the spring can be a problem, as can under ripening. Chapitalization (addition of sugar to prevent stoppage of fermentation from high acid and under ripe grapes) is legal and occasionally used during poor vintages. Chenin Blanc vines can overproduce, and high density planting, pruning, and canopy management have all successful lowered yields, producing better grapes.

Because of the cooler climate, difference in vintage years affect the wines more greatly here than almost anywhere in France, with white wines being much more lush and full flavored in warmer vintages and much more acidic and mineral driven in cooler vintages. The Cabernet Franc tends to be lighter and more herbaceous in cool vintages and more round and fruity in warm vintages.

Lower Loire

Muscadet is home to the Melon de Bourgogne grape and a very dry, light bodied wine that is  citrusy, fresh, and crisp with a good acidity.

Middle Loire

Anjou, near the town of Angers, is known mostly for its rosés made from Cabernet Franc. Some whites made from Chenin Blanc are similar to Vouvrays and usually  less expensive.

Saumur is the third highest producing sparkling wine appellation in France, with twelve million bottles of Mousseau made from Chenin Blanc every year. Cabernet Franc is made here, and the wines tend to be medium bodied and fruity. Domaine Filliatreau Chateau Fouquet Samur 2011 is a great little gem. Biodynamically farmed, this wine has serious depth, with  beautiful fruit and mineral character. It’s one of my favorite Cab Francs at $16.99.

Chinon and neighboring Bourgeuil are sources for most of the Loire’s Cabernet Franc. Those from the former tend to be round and lush, while the latter tend to be more reserved and tannic. Cabernet Franc is known as Breton in this area. Flavors of raspberry and aromas of green pepper and graphite are typical, and the wines are often served a bit cooler than most reds. Bernard Baudry Les Granges 2011 is a particularly good example of Chinon, with deep cherry, blackberry, and currant flavors with an earthy finish for $19.99.

Moving eastward along the river we next come to Vouvray, home of the world’s most famous Chenin Blanc. The wines produced are full flavored with a high acidity making them very age worthy. They are made in many styles from dry (sec) to off dry (demi-sec) to sweet (moelleux). Aromas and flavors of nuts, apples, honey, ginger, and flowers can be found with an underlying minerality and acidity that make these complex wines stand up to many full flavored dishes. One of my favorites is the 2011 Clos Le Vigneau. From a fifteen acre single vineyard, this wine has the aromas of fresh flowers and melony fruit. On the palate there is fresh fruit in a clean, crisp, dry presentation with plenty of acidity and minerality. Super flexible, it is a great food wine at $19.99.

Upper Loire

As we continue eastward, approaching Orléans, we come to the Upper Loire regions of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. Both of these regions are known mostly for their white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, although there is a bit of Pinot Noir grown in Sancerre. The styles differ from the two regions, with the wines from Sancerre having typical flavors of grapefruit and gooseberry with a crisp acidity, and those of Pouilly Fume being more full bodied and richer. Both are delicious. Truly a gorgeous wine, the 2010 Chais St Laurent Les Varennes du Clos is a classic Sancerre. Mineral driven, flinty, citrusy, and very deep and long, this wine is wonderful with all sorts of food. A great value at $20.99.

The Loire is a beautiful place to visit, with its vineyards, gardens, and orchards, as well as its amazing architecture. The wines are some of the world’s finest examples of their respective varietals. Despite the rather difficult growing climate, they are also reasonably priced. If you are planning that special dinner, check out the Loire for a great wine to accompany it.

Turkey Friendly Wines

Thanksgiving is again upon us, and the store will be full of people looking for that special wine to go with their holiday meal. I have a few suggestions.

A white wine must stand up to the myriad flavors that assault our taste buds at the holiday table, not be overpowered by them. My favorite choice is Gewurztraminer, especially those from Alsace. These spicy, full-bodied wines are an ideal choice to go with the yams, cranberry sauce, green bean casserole, and everything else…especially the bird. Domaine Trimbach does an especially fine job with this varietal.

Riesling, with its touch of sweetness and generous minerality works well too. Donnehoff Estate from Nahe and Darting Estate Kabinett from the Pfalz are both classic examples of what the Germans can do with this grape, and Kung  Fu Girl does Washington state proud. Vouvray, the Loire’s version of Chenin Blanc, is another appropriate choice, with its symbiotic blend of minerality, fruit, and flinty acidity. Try Varennes Du Clos.

Choices abound for the red wine lover. Probably the most commonly chosen is Pinot Noir. Its medium body, fragrant aromatics, and cherry flavors mingle gracefully with roasted fowl. Baus Family is a good example from California. Llai LLai is an extraordinary value from Chile, while Regis Bouvier’s En Montre Cul and Drouhin’s Chorey Les Beaune admirably represent Burgundy.

While I’m a big Pinot fan, especially of those from Burgundy, this year my red is going to be a Chinon, probably Jean Dumont Les Mureaux. This wine is from the Loire Valley and is 100% Cabernet Franc. Most commonly known as one of the Bordeaux grapes, Cab Franc can be awesome on its own. The nose has a characteristic herbaciousness that combines with nice berry fruit and round tannins in a medium body with a food-friendly acidity. This varietal goes very well with turkey and other fowl.

Best wishes for a very Happy Thanksgiving!