Chenin Blanc—It must be Important—There’s a Day Named for It!

Friday, June 12 is Chenin Blanc Day, a day to appreciate and learn more about this remarkable grape. Chenin Blanc, originating in the Anjou region of the Loire Valley in Northwestern France, unfortunately became known as a bland grape used mainly for blending into jug wines in America in the early years of its production here.

Chenin Blanc is well known primarily for its high acidity. It also is notorious for its very high vigor and tendency to overproduce. When this happens, the wine becomes bland, neutral, and uninteresting. Consequently, when its growth is unchecked and the vines are grown on fertile soils, large numbers of grapes are produced. This is what occurred in California, resulting in large amounts of cheap neutral juice to blend with other white varietals to increase the acidity of the resulting wine.

When the soils are less fertile, especially those consisting of limestone and silex, and growth is controlled by grafting vines onto less productive rootstock and/or with generous early pruning, production drops to less than a fifth of what is possible, producing much more concentrated and complex flavors. This is how things are done in the Loire Valley, where excellent winemaking techniques, terroir, and climate come together to produce the world’s most well known, and arguably the best, Chenin Blanc.

Because of the high acidity, Chenin Blanc can be made into a variety of styles, from sparkling to dry, off dry, and even well balanced sweet dessert wines. To get the proper balance of fruit and acidity in the rather unpredictable cool climate of the Loire, the grapes are often harvested in stages with three to six passes made through the vineyards, extending the harvest season to up to a length of four to six weeks.

Chenin Blanc is grown in other regions of the world, but today, major plantings occur mostly in South Africa with some plantings still in California, South America, and a small amount in New Zealand. It is the most planted varietal in South Africa, where it is known as Steen. Like California, original plantings were geared towards high production, mainly to be a cheap source of wine to combat scurvy among sailors rounding the Cape of Good Hope on their way back and forth from Asia. Production has since been controlled, and the wines are now much more complex and interesting.

Chenin Blanc at its best produces wines with aromas of acacia, quince, and honey, with flavors of apple, quince, and pear, a bracing acidity, and wonderful chalky minerality. The Loire Valley seems to do it best with the appellations of Anjou, Vouvray, and especially Savennieres, producing beautiful examples. Winemakers in California have now turned from quantity to quality with some excellent single varietal wines being made from the grape, and good ones are coming from South Africa as well. In New Zealand, where Sauvignon Blanc plantings are very small and dwindling, there are a few producers on the North Island that are making outstanding examples.

There are several great Chenin Blancs to look for when exploring your wine shop aisle. Francois Pinon makes an outstanding Sparkling Vouvray. Made by the methode traditionelle, it rivals any mid level Champagne for half the price at $22.99. From the same producer is Vouvray Les Trois Argilles, at $19.99, a slightly sweet wine with great depth on the palate with honeyed and herbal notes that linger on the finish. There is a perfect underlying acidity to balance the delicate sweetness. Clos Le Vigneau is a dry Vouvray that is delicious at $19.99. Domain du Closel La Jalousie 2013 from Savennieres, is from one of the Loire’s very finest estates with mineral driven aromas and flavors of peach, fresh herbs and citrus. This is an awesome wine that is well worth the $31.99 price tag.

Millton is a producer in New Zealand that makes Chenin Blancs that rival those of the Loire Valley. The entry level Crazy By Nature is a flinty mouthful of rich stone fruit and citrus, with honey and flowers on the nose, and is a steal at $19.99. The Te Arai from the same maker is a single vineyard example that is packed with intense flavors of pear, citrus, and fresh cream and honey wrapped in a full, opulent texture. This is a stunning wine at $30.99.

California chimes in with a couple of good value wines. Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier is a blend that is one of my best selling event wines when ABC (anything but Chardonnay) people are looking for medium bodied wines. Beautiful floral aromas and stone fruit on the palate with just the right acidity make this a great value at $10.99. Dry Creek does a great job with Chenin Blanc as a single varietal for only $12.99, showing the world that California CAN do a good job with this grape if it wants to.

We are celebrating Chenin Blanc Day with a tasting at the store including several of the wines mentioned here. So if you are in town from four until six p.m., stop in and see us. If you are not, organize your own tasting…and come to appreciate this great varietal.

Cheers!

Looking for Good Whites? Try Australia!

People who drink wine with me and who buy wine from me know I’m not a huge fan of Australian red wines. It’s not that they are improperly made, but for me they are a little too fruit forward and lacking in complexity at the ten to twenty dollar level, although some of the more expensive examples can be wonderful.

The whites, however, are a different story. Australia has been able to assimilate grapes from other countries and make wines from them that rival the country from which they arrived. Chardonnay arrived in Australia in the 1920s but became popular in the 1970s, and now it is the most widely planted varietal in the country. Those from the warmer parts of the continent show flavors of melon, vanilla, and peach, while those from cooler areas are citrusy with lime and grapefruit. Yalumba’s “Y” Series Unwooded Chardonnay from South Australia is a great bargain at $10.99, letting the vibrant apple and citrus flavors show without any oak to mask them.

More interesting are the Rieslings. Unlike the U.S and Germany, the Aussies make their Riesling in a dry style. People who appreciate the food friendliness, wonderful aromatics, and beautiful balance of bright fruit, minerality, and acidity found in dry Riesling are often astounded when I lead them from Germany to the Australian section, but they are not disappointed. The best come from the Margaret River and Clare Valley regions. Leeuwin Artist Series at $19.99 rivals any German Trocken, and Jim Berry’s Lodge Hill Dry Riesling may be the best $16.99 dry version of this grape that money can buy.

Verdelho (not to be confused with Spain’s Verdejo) is a grape that is grown in Portugal and is one of the grapes used in Madeira. It has been brought to Australia, and some wineries have done amazing things with a grape that it often unexciting and acidic. Molly Dooker (meaning left handed), which is famous for its full throttle reds, makes a highly extracted, mouth filling version called The Violinist, which is awesome at $22.99. Huge flavors of honeyed melons, tropical fruits, and crisp citrus blend together in a wine with a remarkably creamy texture. This is a wine to seek out and buy if you are looking for something quite special.

Those familiar with French Rhone Valley wines know that Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne grapes can be made into wonderful wines. Viognier, native to the Northern Rhone Valley, is a member of the aromatic white group of grapes, and the wines are very floral on the nose. The wines are rarely oaked, yet are medium to full bodied with vibrant fresh citrus and tropical fruits. Although tricky to grow, the grape does well in Eden Valley and McLaren Vale areas of South Australia. Yalumba does several versions, with its “Y Series” entry level being very good at $10.99. The bottling from Eden Valley, however is outstanding for $19.99 and is especially good with seafood that has big texture and flavor, like scallops or shrimp.

Marsanne produces wines that have aromatics and flavors of dry honey and stone fruit. The acidity tends to be low, so this grape is often blended with other grapes to give it a little more acidity and backbone. D’Arenberg’s The Hermit Crab, at $16.99, is a blend of Viognier and Marsanne that is reminiscent of the southern Rhone with flowers and stone fruit on the nose and tropical fruit and mineral flavors that make it wonderful both with food and on its own.

Finally, Roussanne is a notoriously difficult grape to grow, originating in the Rhone Valley. It does rather well in the Eden Valley, and although it is often blended with Marsanne, it can stand on its own. Yalumba again comes through with a beautiful version, the Roussanne Eden Valley, at $20.99. Full bodied, creamy, and complex with aromas of flowers, blood orange, and biscotti and flavors of pear and citrus with a touch of honey. This wine stands up to food very well and is quite interesting by the glass on the back deck.

If you are making a meal that is calling for white wines, or if you just enjoy a refreshing glass now and then, do not forget Australia. You will definitely be glad you tried them.

Cheers!

Looking For a Few Good Men—Sardinia’s New Winemakers

Sardinia is Italy’s second largest island and lies about 150 miles off the western coast. Interestingly, the island not only is isolated in terms of geography, but also regarding grape varietals. Instead of finding typical Italian red grapes like Sangiovese,  Nebbiolo, or Negroamaro, we find those commonly associated with France and Spain—Grenache, Carignan, and Bobal.  The whites have a little more Italian feel, with Malvasia and Vermentino being dominant, as well as the ubiquitous Muscato Bianco. There are as well some indigenous grapes, like Monica, Torbato, and Nasco, and a host of others.

The Italians’ love of complex bureaucracy is evident in the fact that there are more D.O.C. and I.G.T designations than in nearby Calabria and Basilicata combined despite there being fewer vines per overall hectare than any other wine region in Italy.

Unfortunately, despite the climate and soil being ideal for grape growing, this is a rare part of Italy where the growing of wine grapes is not a priority.

In the sixteenth century, Sardinia was abundant with vineyards, to the point that it was called the “Wine Island,” but then the number of vineyards declined until the beginning of the twentieth century. At that time, several cooperatives arose and bought grapes on a guaranteed price per volume.  As a result, high yields were prized far above quality, and Sardinia became known for producing cheap low quality “plonk” wines.

In the early 1990’s a few serious winemakers decided to change the face of Sardinian wines. They improved vineyard management, and soon yields were low and qualities were high. They brought in new winemaking techniques and combined the best of these with the best of traditional methods to ensure that the “terroir” would be preserved in the wines.

While few Sardinian wines actually get to the U.S., three estates send enough wine across the ocean to be found at very good prices. First is Sella and Mosca’s Canonnau di Sardegna Riserva. Cannonau is the Sardinian word for Grenache, and this is one of the finest wines made from that varietal that you’ll ever find. Aromas of violets, bright red berries, and jam. On the medium bodied palate, there are spices and herbs beneath the ample red fruit. Medium bodied with supple tannins, this wine was once called the world’s best wine under $25.00 by Robert Parker. It is considerably less than that—a steal at $16.99.

Argiolas makes a bevy of wonderful wines. They make a Cannonau as well, called Costera, that is of similar flavor profile and quality as the Sella and Mosca—and a similar price as well. The Perdera is made from the indigenous Monica grape, and shows more blue and black fruit on the palate than Grenache and is delicious.

Finally, there is a wonderful Vermentino called Costamolino. Full of bright citrus and tropical fruit with a nice underlying mineralty, this is an outstanding food wine.

Last and certainly not least is the Santadi Carignano del Sulcis Grotto Rosso. This wine bursts with savory dark fruit, leather, and earth and is an awesome wine to have with your next beef stew. I love this wine, and at $14.99, it is an awesome value.

Italy is one of the greatest wine regions on earth. There are hundreds upon hundreds of different varietals made into wine. Each of the many regions has its own expression of its wines, and Sardinia is no different. Try them, and you’ll be very happy that you did. Cheers!

An Afternoon in France With Dion Jones-Lewin - Great Food, Wine…and a bit of Good Whisky Too

On Saturday, December 14^th, we had the pleasure of hosting Dion Jones-Lewin at our store. She signed her cookbooks and handed out samples of delicious French fare as I poured some wonderful French wines and an excellent French Whisky to celebrate.

This delightful lady was born and raised in Paris and learned to cook from her Grand-mere. After her grandmother’s death, Dion found a sealed box filled with recipes and family photos, which inspired her to write her series of cookbooks, “From the Sealed Box: Simply French”. They are written to allow anyone to experience French cuisine without spending hours in the kitchen.

Dion charmed our customers, introducing them to the joys of French cooking - and sold a lot of cookbooks. This was not surprising as her books are very well written with easy to read and follow recipes…and lists of ingredients which are not impossible to find. There are four volumes in the series, with her recently released “A French Christmas” now available. You can find out more about Dion and her Cookbooks at  CafeDion.com.

We poured four wines to celebrate France. They all showed well and many people enjoyed them enough to purchase the wine from a bottle or two to a case or so.

Domain du Salvard Cheverney Blanc 2012. This is a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Chardonnay from estate vineyards in Cheverney, a small appellation  in the Loire Valley. It is fresh and crisp with flavors of citrus, mineral and a generous acidity that results in a mouth watering finish that is refreshing and food friendly. It is a good alternative to the more pricey Sancerre produced nearby, costing only $14.99 per bottle.

Champalou Vouvray Sec 2011.  This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc and is from an estate founded by Didier and Catherine Champalou in the early 1980’s. White acacia flowers, honey  and citrus on the nose and a complex flavor profile of citrus  fruits with a beautiful minerality  make this a wonderful food wine. Priced at 21.99.

Clos la Coutale Cahors 2011. When Malbec is mentioned, people think of Argentina although Cahors, located just south of Bordeaux, is the birthplace of this grape. It was taken to Argentina by French emigrants at the end of the nineteenth century and has become that country’s signature red varietal. This wine which is 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot is much meatier, earthier and more structured than the Argentinan style of Malbec. It has a similar fruit profile but  is less flashy and fruit driven and  is an outstanding wine. $19.99.

Chateau Aney Haut- Medoc Rouge 2010. This Bordeaux blend from the Left Bank is a great value from an area where wine prices can get astronomical. Left Bank wines are usually Cabernet Sauvignon  predominant, and this is indeed primarily Cabernet, tempered and rounded with a bit of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It is aged 12 months in new French oak. There is a nose of cassis, black fruits, graphite and tobacco with a wonderful fruit and earth flavor profile.  Delicious now and will only get better in the cellar for the next several years. A bargain at $32.99.

Last but not least, we poured a wonderful Whisky, Bastille. When thinking of Whisky, nobody thinks of France – at least until they try this. It is distilled from barley and wheat and is aged primarily in French Limousin oak for five to seven years. It has a floral, fruity nose with a hint of cinnamon. On the palate, it is slightly sweet and honeyed, with a bit of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. This is a beautiful whisky that is  best enjoyed neat and is a bargain at $30.00.

Dion’s cookbooks combined with her delightful personality, great wines being poured, a few morsels demonstrating her expertise…topped off with a sip of a great whisky…make my job very easy to enjoy.

Cheers!

Tired of the same old varietals? Me Too!

People who know me have often asked why I can claim so many previous occupations. I tell them either that I get bored easily, or that I can’t decide what I want to do when I grow up. I guess both of these are true which has led to me to be an obstetrician/gynecologist for 20 years, own an equestrian training/breeding facility, be a bartender and kayak guide in the Caribbean, and eventually end up in the next logical thing…retail wine and wine education.

My restlessness extends to other aspects of my life, including the wines I drink. I can only drink so much Merlot and Cabernet without wanting to venture into the vast world of different grapes that become incredible wines. So let’s look at some fun wines to impress your dinner guests with. Italy, with over 1000 grapes that have been, or are being, made into wine, is a great place to start.

San Giovanni Il Groppello. Groppello is the major grape grown in the Lago Garda area between Veneto and Lombardy. When you open the squat little bottle aromas of dark cherries and spice leap from within. The wine is medium bodied and silky with moderate tannins supporting minerally dark fruit flavors. It is a delicious alternative to Pinot Noir for $22.99.

Emilio Bulfon in Friuli has dedicated his life to resurrecting obscure grapes that often were thought to be extinct. His Forgiarin is an excellent example. The wine is medium to full in body with fruity aromas with hints of underbrush. On the palate warm, smooth flavors of red fruit are supported by light supple tannins. A bit understated but plenty of flavor to enjoy and wonderful with pork or fowl. $19.99.

Castelfeder Rieder Lagrein. Lagrein is a grape native to Alto Adige, in the far north of Italy where more Germen is spoken than Italian. This wine has aromatics of black and red cherries with a hint of violets. Medium to full in body, it is intense but soft textured, chewy but not heavy. Your palate will experience earthy plums and dark cherries with a pronounced mineral edge and a wonderful savoriness. My favorite wine with beef stew. $19.99.

We could stay in Italy for the rest of this article and talk about Piculit Neri, Teroldego, or Nerello Mascalese but we should head elsewhere. Before we do, we should touch on a white wine, and Arianna Occhipinti’s SP68 would be my choice. This young rock star winemaker from Sicily is crafting wines from indigenous varietals such as Frapatto, Grillo and Nero D’Avola. But this white, made from Albanella and Zibibbo is off the charts. Bright and fresh, with bold zesty flavors of citrus, white peach, and tropical fruit with a rosemary-ginger kick at the back end. Pricey at $29.99, but fabulous!

France has its share of grapes you never heard of, too. For a great bargain in white wine, try Saint Mont “Les Bastions”. From the Basque country of Southwest France, this fresh, vibrant, delightful wine is a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu and Arrufiac. There are floral and citrus-grapefruit aromas with grapefruit and herbs on the palate. With a bracing acidity it is a great little wine on its own or with food for $10.99.

Jura is a little known region of France which is currently a darling of high end restaurants and sommeliers. Jacques Puffeney’s Arbois is a wonderful wine made from the Trousseau Noir grape. Known as the “Pope of Jura” he brings the best out of this grape. The nose is of wild berries, game, and pine. There are mineral infused flavors of red cherries and berries with grainy tannins. There is a wonderful rustic quality that makes this a unique wine. It is not cheap, at $42.99, but worth the experience.

Domain de Labarthe Gaillac is from the region of Gaillac in Sothwestern France and is a blend of Fer-Servado, Braucol and Duras. Flavors and aromas of dried herbs, red fruit, pencil lead and minerals in this earthy, rustic wine end with a spiced, tart smoky finish. Unusual and delicious at $20.99.

No discussion on unusual grape varietals would be complete without an entry from Greece. Domain Skouras makes a wonderful red from the Aghiorghitiko (honest) grape. Since the grape is so hard to pronounce it has been renamed Saint George for English speaking wine lovers.  Big lush flavors of dark fruit in this complex earthy wine make for a delightful pairing with lamb or braised meats. At $14.99 it’s a great way to forget that Greece has to claim Retsina as coming from there.

These are just a few of the unknown, unusual and wonderful varietals out there to explore. There are many more and they are worth every effort to find. Think how smart you’ll sound when you matter of factly say “Here’s a delightful little Garganega I picked up recently…”

Cheers! 

Some Great Bargains From a Small Distributor

One of the biggest concerns of customers in our store is the price of wine. Many people come in after a trip to France or Italy and are discouraged by the fact that they see $19.99 price tags on wines they drank in Europe for a few Euros. This is not because we are making huge margins at Liquormart, and it certainly isn't the fact that the winemakers are getting paid any premiums for shipping their wines here. The reason is the multi-tiered system that rules the wine industry. An estate in Europe must sell its wine to an importer. That importer then sells it to a distributor, who sells it to the store. Often the estate has to pay a negociant to make the wine available to importers.  With everybody getting their substantial cut, it is small wonder that the wines double or even triple in price from the estate to the shelf.

Is there a way to combat this? Not always, but one person does it the right way. Enter Denver's own Philippe Sevier.  He owns some vineyards of his own in Europe. He also visits other small estates that make wonderful  wines, and brings them to Colorado, acting as importer AND distributor. He even delivers the wines himself in his van. When other distributors host trade tastings they do so at restaurants, museums or art galleries at considerable expense (ultimately born by the customer in the store). Phillipe hosts trade tastings in his dining room, with dozens of wines lined up on the table, a few assorted cheeses to enhance the flavors of the wine, and an occasional treat from his delightful wife's oven.  He knows everything about every wine, so it is a very valuable experience for all who attend.

Not only do his methods keep prices very reasonable, but he gives small estates an opportunity to showcase their wines...and many of these wines are very, very good. They grow grapes in the same terroir as the more expensive, well known estates, and have similar winemaking techniques. They can avoid the techniques of mass production that enable the production of hundreds of thousands of cases of wine, and also diminish the flavor and character. The result is a great wine for a great price.

Sampling Sevier's wines is like taking a tour of Europe, and it doesn't feel like a low budget one either, until you hit the checkout line. If we start in Bordeaux, chateau Carbonneau delivers vibrant black fruit flavors with earth, cassis and spice. This is an every day dinner wine for $9.99. Chateau La Croix Bonnelle from St Emilion, shows surprising complexity, with rich dark fruit, earth and spice. One of the most expensive wines in his portfolio at a whopping $16.99!

When looking for crisp, minerally vibrant whites, one may forget Bordeaux and Sevier is there to remind you of these great bargains.

These wines are blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, are beautiful food wines, and perfect for large events....and I sell a lot of this wines for wedding receptions. Chateau Vrai Caillou and Chateau Des Chapelains, both at $9.99, give a mouthful of mineral driven, fresh, vibrant tropical and citrus fruit.

 

Traveling next to Cahors, we come to the birthplace of Malbec. Although most people think of Argentina when they think of this grape, it originated in France and is one of the grapes found in red Bordeaux. Cahors are primarily Malbec with a little Merlot or Tannat thrown in. They are more structured and less fruit forward than the typical Argentinian example, and more complex. Sevier has two, and they are excellent – Chateau St Sernin ($13.99) and  and Chateau Nozieres ($12.99), both are bursting with ripe plumb, black cherry, cocoa, vanilla and spice. Next time when you think of Malbec, give one of these a try.

Looking for a different summertime white? Think Ugni Blanc, a grape most famous for its use in Cognac. In the Cotes du Gascogne, in southern France, this grape makes very flavorful whites. Domain D'Uby makes a blend of Ugni blanc and Columbard. It is fresh and vibrant, similar to a Sauvignon Blanc, but a little more floral and nutty. Awesome at the massive price of $8.99. do you HAVE to have your weekly Chardonnay fix? The Philippe Sevier Chardonnay from the Loire valley, in an unoaked style gives the best mothful of tropical and citrus fruit you'll ever have for a $8.99 price tag.

This is just a small sample of Mr. Sevier's  list of wines. Burgundy is represented and he really does the Loire Valley in style. Wines from Chinon, Bougeuil, Anjou, Muscadet, Sancerre and Vouvray are all found on our shelves and are all fun to try, with not a single one over 15.99!!! The Rhone Valley is not forgotten either. So come in the store and ask for me. Let Philippe Sevier and I take you on a tour of France. First class accommodations at Supersaver prices.

Cheers!

The Aromatic Whites—Taste the Grape, Not the Oak

Far too many people limit their experience of white wine to oaky Chardonnay and the occasional Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. If they find these wines a bit boring, they tend to consider consider themselves “red drinkers.” If I’ve just described you and you’re sick of buttered oak, try the the aromatic family of wines. These wines earn their name by their beautiful, intense aromas—not from oak, as most are completely unoaked, but from their respective grape.

When I’m walking down the street trying to decide which restaurant to try, I look at the wine glasses on the table. If they are small with narrow mouths, I keep walking. That is because aromatics play a very important role in the wine experience. The senses of taste and smell are closely integrated. If you have a stuffy nose, your ability to taste is dramatically decreased. If your wine is in a tiny glass with a narrow opening it doesn’t taste near as good as the same amount of wine in a large glass with a wide bowl. Aromatic wines not only have intense fragrances, but intense flavors as well.

The flavor profiles of these wines express the flavor of the grape and even the subtle differences in terroir and winemaking because they are not masked by oak and butter. The most important trait these wines share is that they are wonderful with food. They tend to be lighter bodied, lower in alcohol, and higher in acidity—all characteristics of great food wines. Although delicious on their own, they are the darlings of restaurant sommeliers because they go so well with food—even the hard to match spicy dishes.

So what are the “aromatic white wines”?

Muscat: Perhaps the most aromatic of all, with fresh flowers and stone fruit leaping from the glass. This is the grape of Muscato d’Asti from Italy done in the frizzante (lightly sparkling) style. Try the Vietti Cascinetta ($16.99). Still wines from this grape are made in Alsace.

Gewurztraminer: With characteristic aromas and flavors of roses, lychee fruit, and spice, the best examples come from Alsace. This wine is more medium bodied and has a robust flavor that makes it a great Thanksgiving wine. Try Joseph Cattin ($17.99) and the Gold Medal by the same maker for $2 more.

Viognier: This grape comes from the upper Rhone Valley, but Australia and California also produce it. Very floral on the nose with flavors of peach and apricot and probably the most full bodied of the group, this is the only one that is sometimes oaked. Chardonnay fans should start with this one. Yalumba Eden Valley ($22.99) is big bodied example from Australia.

Riesling: The “noblest” of the aromatic grapes, the best examples of this wine come from cool climates—Germany, Austria, Alsace, and Washington State. These wines can be bone dry to very sweet. Aromas and flavors range from citrus to stone fruit to tropical fruit. The hallmark of this varietal is low alcohol, high acidity, and a striking minerality (aroma and taste of stones, limestone, or slate). These traits make Riesling an incredible wine for food matching. Kung Fu Girl ($11.99) is a nice example from Washington State that is off dry.

Torrontes: This is Argentina’s signature white grape. There are intense floral and spice aromas and flavors with a low acidity. This wine is one of my favorites with Mexican food. Try Alamos ($9.99).

Albarino This grape is from Spain and Portugal. It has a high acidity with beautiful peach, citrus, flowers, and minerality on the nose and palate. Burgans ($14.99) is a nice example.

Moschofilero: This Greek varietal produces a wine similar to Muscat, except it is drier and lighter bodied with orange-tangerine-citrus notes. A nice one is made by Boutari for $14.99.

Everything white is not Chardonnay. Next time your meal or occasion calls for a white wine, look to these amazing varietals. Even the “only red” drinker will take notice.

Cheers!

The Garden of FranceWines from the Loire Valley

Also known as the “cradle of the French Language,” the Loire Valley gets the above nickname from the vast vineyards and orchards interspersed among over three hundred historical chateaux. The vineyards extend from the Muscadet region near Nantes on the Atlantic coast (known as the Lower Loire), through the Middle Loire (Anjou, Saumur, Bourgeuil, Chinon, Cheverny and Vouvray), to the Upper Loire (Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé), near the city of Orléans.

The vast majority of white wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne, and almost all the reds from Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Pinot Noir and Gamay. Although mostly still wines are made, Crémant de Loire, a sparkling wine made primarily from Chenin Blanc is second only to Champagne in total bottles produced in France.

The Romans first planted vines along the Loire in the first century, and by the High Middle ages the region produced  the most esteemed wines in France and England, more so than even Bordeaux. The Loire River has a significant effect on the immediate climate, adding the few degrees in temperature to make viticulture possible so far north. Frost in the spring can be a problem, as can under ripening. Chapitalization (addition of sugar to prevent stoppage of fermentation from high acid and under ripe grapes) is legal and occasionally used during poor vintages. Chenin Blanc vines can overproduce, and high density planting, pruning, and canopy management have all successful lowered yields, producing better grapes.

Because of the cooler climate, difference in vintage years affect the wines more greatly here than almost anywhere in France, with white wines being much more lush and full flavored in warmer vintages and much more acidic and mineral driven in cooler vintages. The Cabernet Franc tends to be lighter and more herbaceous in cool vintages and more round and fruity in warm vintages.

Lower Loire

Muscadet is home to the Melon de Bourgogne grape and a very dry, light bodied wine that is  citrusy, fresh, and crisp with a good acidity.

Middle Loire

Anjou, near the town of Angers, is known mostly for its rosés made from Cabernet Franc. Some whites made from Chenin Blanc are similar to Vouvrays and usually  less expensive.

Saumur is the third highest producing sparkling wine appellation in France, with twelve million bottles of Mousseau made from Chenin Blanc every year. Cabernet Franc is made here, and the wines tend to be medium bodied and fruity. Domaine Filliatreau Chateau Fouquet Samur 2011 is a great little gem. Biodynamically farmed, this wine has serious depth, with  beautiful fruit and mineral character. It’s one of my favorite Cab Francs at $16.99.

Chinon and neighboring Bourgeuil are sources for most of the Loire’s Cabernet Franc. Those from the former tend to be round and lush, while the latter tend to be more reserved and tannic. Cabernet Franc is known as Breton in this area. Flavors of raspberry and aromas of green pepper and graphite are typical, and the wines are often served a bit cooler than most reds. Bernard Baudry Les Granges 2011 is a particularly good example of Chinon, with deep cherry, blackberry, and currant flavors with an earthy finish for $19.99.

Moving eastward along the river we next come to Vouvray, home of the world’s most famous Chenin Blanc. The wines produced are full flavored with a high acidity making them very age worthy. They are made in many styles from dry (sec) to off dry (demi-sec) to sweet (moelleux). Aromas and flavors of nuts, apples, honey, ginger, and flowers can be found with an underlying minerality and acidity that make these complex wines stand up to many full flavored dishes. One of my favorites is the 2011 Clos Le Vigneau. From a fifteen acre single vineyard, this wine has the aromas of fresh flowers and melony fruit. On the palate there is fresh fruit in a clean, crisp, dry presentation with plenty of acidity and minerality. Super flexible, it is a great food wine at $19.99.

Upper Loire

As we continue eastward, approaching Orléans, we come to the Upper Loire regions of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. Both of these regions are known mostly for their white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, although there is a bit of Pinot Noir grown in Sancerre. The styles differ from the two regions, with the wines from Sancerre having typical flavors of grapefruit and gooseberry with a crisp acidity, and those of Pouilly Fume being more full bodied and richer. Both are delicious. Truly a gorgeous wine, the 2010 Chais St Laurent Les Varennes du Clos is a classic Sancerre. Mineral driven, flinty, citrusy, and very deep and long, this wine is wonderful with all sorts of food. A great value at $20.99.

The Loire is a beautiful place to visit, with its vineyards, gardens, and orchards, as well as its amazing architecture. The wines are some of the world’s finest examples of their respective varietals. Despite the rather difficult growing climate, they are also reasonably priced. If you are planning that special dinner, check out the Loire for a great wine to accompany it.

Take a Price Break After the Holidays—The Languedoc

January is here and we are all dealing with our credit card bills from the holidays, but have no fear—you don’t have to give up good wine! The Languedoc-Roussillon region of France offers up some affordable big, bold reds perfect for cold weather, as well as an interesting white to go with a healthy seafood dinner.

The Languedoc-Roussillon region spans the Mediterranean coastline from Spain to Provence. The area boasts 700,000 acres of vines and is the single largest wine producing area in the world. It accounts for over a third of France’s wine production, and as recently as 2001 produced more wine than the entire U.S. The region has been producing wines since the fifth century.

It is the hottest and most arid of France’s wine growing regions, which allows for full ripening and maturation of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre, Mauzac, and Chenin Blanc. International varietals such as Cabernet, Merlot, and Chardonnay thrive there as well. The region is known for its fruit-forward, bold wines that are screaming values. Despite all this, it is probably France's least well-known wine region.

The Languedoc is divided into several appellations, the most well-known being Corbieres, Minervois, Limoux (the birthplace of sparkling wine), and Coteaux du Languedoc. The latter is further divided into several sub districts such as Pic St Loupe and Picpoule de Pinet. This results in a wonderful variety of wines.

Chateau Millegrand  Minervois 2010 is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Carignan. This barrel-aged blend is perfumed with dark cherries, black pepper, and vanilla spice. Hints of herbs and minerals add to a rich palate of dense dark fruits and subtle oak. Although medium-bodied, it is well structured with a good backbone of fine tannins and restrained acidity. All for $13.99.

Chateau de Vaugelas Le Prieure Corbieres 2009 is a blend very similar to the previous wine. This 270 acre estate lies in the hills of Lagrasse, reputed to be the best of the Corbieres growing zones. This estate was the preferred source of wine for The Abbaye Lagrasse in the sixteenth century. (This monastery was an instrumental outpost for the merciless eradication of the Cathars and suppression of other alleged heretics). There is a powerful ripe flattering nose of black fruit and spices. It is warm and velvety on the palate with rich black fruit flavors. The finish is full and rich, with hints of chocolate. Simultaneously exuberant and elegant. Again at a bargain price of $12.99.

Domaine L’Hortus Le Loup Dans la Bergerie 2010 is a wonderful wine resulting from an ancient reclaimed vineyard squeezed between two mountain peaks in Pic St Loup. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Merlot grapes that are grown organically and aged entirely in stainless steel, this medium-bodied wine is fresh and lively with cherry and plum fruit spiked with white pepper, black tea, stone, and spice. Hortus is Latin for garden, and the French name literally means “The Wolf in the Sheep Pen.” The price is $11.99

My suggestion for a white is one of the oldest varietals in France, Picpoul. Its name means “lip stinger” and refers to the grape’s high acidity. Picpoul de Pinet is a designation which may be used if the wine is 100% Picpoul and made only in the town of Pinet. It can be recognized by the tall slender bottle embossed with the Languedoc Cross. Gerard Bertrand's bottling is full bodied with rich, slightly buttery green apple and lemon flavors and has remarkable freshness and acidity for a warm weather wine. It has a bright clear finish. This wine sees no oak and is meant to be drunk young. The appellation covers only 1300 hectares overlooking a lagoon where mussels and oysters are farmed (fitting, as this is a perfect seafood wine). The wine costs only $13.99.

Try a wine from the Languedoc-Roussillon region today. You’ll likely uncover a new favorite...and still pay off your holiday bills!

Turkey Friendly Wines

Thanksgiving is again upon us, and the store will be full of people looking for that special wine to go with their holiday meal. I have a few suggestions.

A white wine must stand up to the myriad flavors that assault our taste buds at the holiday table, not be overpowered by them. My favorite choice is Gewurztraminer, especially those from Alsace. These spicy, full-bodied wines are an ideal choice to go with the yams, cranberry sauce, green bean casserole, and everything else…especially the bird. Domaine Trimbach does an especially fine job with this varietal.

Riesling, with its touch of sweetness and generous minerality works well too. Donnehoff Estate from Nahe and Darting Estate Kabinett from the Pfalz are both classic examples of what the Germans can do with this grape, and Kung  Fu Girl does Washington state proud. Vouvray, the Loire’s version of Chenin Blanc, is another appropriate choice, with its symbiotic blend of minerality, fruit, and flinty acidity. Try Varennes Du Clos.

Choices abound for the red wine lover. Probably the most commonly chosen is Pinot Noir. Its medium body, fragrant aromatics, and cherry flavors mingle gracefully with roasted fowl. Baus Family is a good example from California. Llai LLai is an extraordinary value from Chile, while Regis Bouvier’s En Montre Cul and Drouhin’s Chorey Les Beaune admirably represent Burgundy.

While I’m a big Pinot fan, especially of those from Burgundy, this year my red is going to be a Chinon, probably Jean Dumont Les Mureaux. This wine is from the Loire Valley and is 100% Cabernet Franc. Most commonly known as one of the Bordeaux grapes, Cab Franc can be awesome on its own. The nose has a characteristic herbaciousness that combines with nice berry fruit and round tannins in a medium body with a food-friendly acidity. This varietal goes very well with turkey and other fowl.

Best wishes for a very Happy Thanksgiving!

Gruner Veltliner, the Ultimate Food Wine

Our store is located in Boulder, Colorado, a notoriously “foodie” town. We have a huge wine selection and a well-trained wine staff, so we’re often asked about food pairings. Easy, right? Usually, but some foods are difficult.  Asparagus and artichokes, for example, contain a chemical called cynarin which makes wine taste metallic.

Without hesitation, I take customers asking about these two veggies to the Austrian wine section and suggest a Gruner Veltliner (pronounced groon-er velt-leen-er). More often than not, they’ve never heard of it, but if they take my suggestion, it soon becomes one of their “go to” wines.

Gruner Veltliner is grown primarily in Austria where it comprises about 37% of the total grape production. There are two basic expressions of this varietal. If it is grown in the granite soils on the very steep hillsides along the Danube west of Vienna in the areas of Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal, the wine is very pure with perfect acidity and enormous minerality—sometimes described as “liquid stone.” These wines are full bodied with beautiful perfumed aromatics and age gracefully. They have the strength of character to match with any food. If the grapes are grown in the southern plains, the perfume is peppery and spicy, and these wines are drunk young.

Berger from Kremstal is crown capped like a beer bottle and comes as a liter only. The wine is light, faintly herbal, and is refreshing like minerally cold spring water. This an excellent entry level Gruner at $15. You’ll be glad it comes as a liter since one glass will not be enough.

Nigl Kremser Freiheit, also from Kremstal, has a smoky, creamy nose that is gradually overtaken by bright fruit and minerals. Light and stimulating, firm and lively, this is a wonderful wine for chicken and artichokes, asparagus soup, or just about any other food.

Arndorfer Weinberge, from Kamptal, is a spicy Gruner with vibrant minerality and acidity, and notes of grass and citrus on the nose. This is a perfect wine to start the evening, as the acidity makes the mouth water and the mind crave food. A great example of this grape’s potential, it’s a bargain for $25.00. Martin Arndorfer, not yet thirty years old, and his wife both come from familes of great winemakers. I had the privilege of meeting this enthusiastic yet humble young man and tasting through a half dozen of his wines, including his Vorgeschmack, 80% Gruner and 20% dry Riesling, aged four months on the lees in 80% stainless steel and 20% used oak. This wine has been one of my staff picks ever since.

Gruner Veltliner is one of the greatest food wines available. The freshness and vibrancy make it especially well suited for cooking that focuses on fresh local ingredients. Chefs all over the world are embracing it.

So next time you head to your wine shop, think Austria!

Dare to be "Geeky"Time for Some REALLY Strange Grapes

Last blog I talked about Tannat, the grape found in Madiran wines. The blog before I talked about white varietals beginning with “V.” Today I sat down with Mike, one of my favorite distributors, to taste “Geeky” wines. This is a term we use for wines from obscure grapes that are often unusual. Sometimes it's impossible to decide if they are wonderful or just strange. In today's case, they were both.

First up was Burja Zelen 2010 from Slovenia. Zelen is a rare grape grown only in the Primorje region of Slovenia. It is not grown much because of low yields, but recently the grape has made a comeback. It is remotely related to the Italian grape Verduzzo. The wine is a golden yellow with a pretty bouquet of tropical fruit and spice. Its palate is rich with peach and apricot against an unusual background reminiscent of green tea. A nice acidity balances out the flavor.  Unfortunately, you will probably never see this grape. This particular producer makes the most of anyone in the world…135 cases.

Next up was Valdibella Munir Catarratto. Catarratto is one of the most ancient varietals in Sicily and was one of the original grapes used in the production of Marsala. The wine is incredibly aromatic with intense citrus notes. The fruit is nicely balanced with ample acidity and structure. This is a great everyday wine.

Last was the Valdibella Acamante Perricone 2010. Perricone is another ancient indigenous Sicilian grape. Only 340 hectares in all of Sicily--and the world--are devoted to its growth. The wine has a fragrant nose of fruits and spice, and I expected it to be full bodied. Instead, it is medium bodied with beautiful red berries, clove, and pepper, and surprisingly obvious tannins. This is a great summertime red. Of note, this varietal has an extremely high level of antioxidants that are so important in heart health. As a side note, you'll be glad to know that Valdibella's wines are certified non-mafia as indicated on the label.

I also want to mention one more wine I tasted recently, although not with Mike. St. Mont Les Bastions from the Basque influenced area of Southwestern France is a pretty little wine fashioned from local varietals--Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, and Mensang--found only in the immediate area. The wine has a very complex, fresh, fruity, floral and slightly herbal nose and palate. It is very refreshing and appealing. This is a great match for summertime fare or sipping alone on the deck.

Literally thousands of grapes are used in making wine. While Cabernet, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Malbec, as well as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc are well known for good reason, trying new, different, and sometimes obscure wines adds to your palate and you never know...you may find a gem among them.