Moscato d’Asti—Summer’s Perfect Wine

Moscato d’Asti is produced mostly around the town of Asti in Southeast Piedmont, probably Italy’s most important wine producing region. It is made in a frizzante (lightly sparkling) style, is low in alcohol (4.5 - 6.5%) and has a zippy acidity that makes it an ideal summer refresher. Despite being modestly sweet, the low alcohol and good acidity clear the palate, so it's not syrupy or cloying. This makes the second glass as good as the first. It is made from the Muscato Bianco grape, which has been grown in Piedmont for hundreds of years.  Although made in the same area and from the same grape, it is distinct from Asti Spumante, a fully sparkling wine typically done in a drier style.

Moscato d’Asti is known for its freshness, elegant floral aromas, and delicate flavors of peaches and apricots. The wine is typically paired with non-chocolate desserts, particularly the classic Panatonne (a sweet bread containing candied orange, citron, and lemon zest), fruit tarts, or dry pastries made with hazelnuts or almonds. It’s also a great apéritif.

Many wineries produce this wine, including some of the most well known estates in Piedmont. It is not particularly expensive, usually in the $12.00  to $20.00 range.

Vietti Cascinetta is made from only the best grapes harvested from thirty-five year old vines. The nose suggests aromas of peaches, rose petals, and ginger. On the palate, its modest sweetness is perfectly balanced with acidity and minerality. Fresh apricots round out the creamy finish. Price tag? About $16.00.

A bit pricier at $15.00 per half bottle, but probably one of Piedmont’s best Muscatos, is Michele Chiarlo Nivole. Nivole means “clouds” in the Piedmontese dialect, and it appropriately suggests the wine’s airy, elegant quality. The fragrant, intensely fruity bouquet is offset by musky notes and leads to flavors of fresh peaches, apricots, and a hint of lemon.  Its refined sweetness is supported by an excellent balance of acid and bubbles. The finish is clear and crisp. You’ll wish it came in full bottles. The half is simply not enough of this beauty.

I drink dry wines ninety-five percent of the time. When I’m in the mood for something a little sweeter, Moscato d’Asti is the one I choose (except for the occassional Riesling or Port, of course.) Give it a try. You’ll love it.

It’s Greek To Me

When considering Greek wines, many think of Retsina as the country’s only contribution. This bizarre wine, flavored with the resin of the Aleppo Pine, has a taste reminiscent of disinfectant and turpentine and is drunk in wide-mouthed tumblers to prevent the aroma and flavor from overwhelming the drinker.

This is NOT the final word on Greek wines.

In fact, Greece produces many beautiful wines both on the mainland and on the islands. These wines are made from unfamiliar-sounding grapes that result in fresh, aromatic whites and bold, flavorful reds.

One very reliable producer is Domaine Skouras from the northern part of the Greek mainland. They make several wines, but the first I ever tried remains one of my favorites—the Skouras White. This is a blend of Roditis and Moscofilero. It is aged over lees in stainless steel resulting in a light to medium bodied wine with husky, citrus, floral, and herbal aromas.  Flavors of tangerine, lemon, and melon combine with a fresh, crisp acidity and a minerally finish – all for about ten bucks.

The Skouras St. George Nemea 2008 is made from 100% Aghiorghitiko. The nose is of berries – blackberries, raspberries and even strawberries. On the palate, the fruit turns more towards blue – blueberries and plums with a bit of vanilla. The wine is medium bodied, earthy, with ripe tannins and a nice acidity.  This is a fun wine for $14.00.

Alpha Estate’s Axia 2008 is a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Xinomavro, and it is a mouthful of wine! A complex bouquet of spices (vanilla, clove and pepper) and violets with hints of blackberry hits the nose. Wonderful berry fruit (blue and black), earth, and spice strike the palate. The tannins are velvety and the acidity is just right. This is a great wine on its own and also with food.

Not to be outdone by the mainland, the island of Crete is responsible for 20% of Greece’s wine production. The Alexakis family is a cooperative that makes great wines. The 2011 Malvasia Aromatica, related to the Malvasia of Italy, is well named. This wine is intensely aromatic with sweet notes of honeysuckle, orange, and jasmine. The nose suggests a sweet palate to follow. However, it is fresh, crisp, and citrusy  with a beautiful acidity.  This is a great food wine, and the contrast between the sweet aromatics and the dry, refreshing palate makes it a fascinating sipping wine.

The  2008 red wine from this co-op is a blend of 40% Syrah and 60% Kotsifali. The latter is the most traditional red varietal on Crete. This wine has aromatics of cinnamon, clove, and blackberry. The medium bodied wine has a background of berry fruit with lots of spice (cinnamon, pepper) and earth (dirt, actually).  I am pleasantly reminded of a forest floor. This is a very interesting wine that I’m going to have with my next lamb dinner.

Next time you are thinking of a white, instead of Chardonnay think Malvasia Aromatica! Instead of Zinfandel, think Xinomavro!  But by all means think about giving Greece a chance to impress you. You won’t be disappointed.

Dare to be "Geeky"Time for Some REALLY Strange Grapes

Last blog I talked about Tannat, the grape found in Madiran wines. The blog before I talked about white varietals beginning with “V.” Today I sat down with Mike, one of my favorite distributors, to taste “Geeky” wines. This is a term we use for wines from obscure grapes that are often unusual. Sometimes it's impossible to decide if they are wonderful or just strange. In today's case, they were both.

First up was Burja Zelen 2010 from Slovenia. Zelen is a rare grape grown only in the Primorje region of Slovenia. It is not grown much because of low yields, but recently the grape has made a comeback. It is remotely related to the Italian grape Verduzzo. The wine is a golden yellow with a pretty bouquet of tropical fruit and spice. Its palate is rich with peach and apricot against an unusual background reminiscent of green tea. A nice acidity balances out the flavor.  Unfortunately, you will probably never see this grape. This particular producer makes the most of anyone in the world…135 cases.

Next up was Valdibella Munir Catarratto. Catarratto is one of the most ancient varietals in Sicily and was one of the original grapes used in the production of Marsala. The wine is incredibly aromatic with intense citrus notes. The fruit is nicely balanced with ample acidity and structure. This is a great everyday wine.

Last was the Valdibella Acamante Perricone 2010. Perricone is another ancient indigenous Sicilian grape. Only 340 hectares in all of Sicily--and the world--are devoted to its growth. The wine has a fragrant nose of fruits and spice, and I expected it to be full bodied. Instead, it is medium bodied with beautiful red berries, clove, and pepper, and surprisingly obvious tannins. This is a great summertime red. Of note, this varietal has an extremely high level of antioxidants that are so important in heart health. As a side note, you'll be glad to know that Valdibella's wines are certified non-mafia as indicated on the label.

I also want to mention one more wine I tasted recently, although not with Mike. St. Mont Les Bastions from the Basque influenced area of Southwestern France is a pretty little wine fashioned from local varietals--Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, and Mensang--found only in the immediate area. The wine has a very complex, fresh, fruity, floral and slightly herbal nose and palate. It is very refreshing and appealing. This is a great match for summertime fare or sipping alone on the deck.

Literally thousands of grapes are used in making wine. While Cabernet, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Malbec, as well as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc are well known for good reason, trying new, different, and sometimes obscure wines adds to your palate and you never know...you may find a gem among them.

DRINK TO YOUR HEALTH...LITERALLYMadiran—No Spoonful of Sugar Required for this Medicine to go Down

Madiran is a small village in Basque-influenced southwest France just north of the Pyrenees. It is also an appellation, and it gained worldwide attention when Roger Corder published his 2007 book The Red Wine Diet and recommended Madiran wines as the most heart healthy in the world.

Corder’s research revealed that red wines contain procyanidin, an antioxidant that prevents heart disease. The Tannat grape, the basis of red Madiran wines, has more procyanidin than any other grape. Coincidentally, the lifespan of men in the Madiran district is among the highest in the world.

The Tannat grape produces tannic, complex wines with rich dark fruit and raspberry flavors and aromas of spice, coffee and vanilla. These wines have had a reputation of being fiercely tannic, requiring years of aging before being drinkable. Now, Tannat is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc which softens the tannin and results in a much more approachable wine.

Another way to soften tannins is a process called micro-oxygenation, introduced in 1991 specifically for Tannat grapes. Oxygen is introduced into fermenting wine in a controlled manner. This results in polymerization of the tannins into larger molecules which are perceived as softer.

1907 Madiran (Producteurs Plainmont and Cave Crousilles) is a spectacular example of the level of flavor, structure, and complexity these wines can reach at a $15.00 price tag. It is a blend of 70% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc.

The nose of spice, coffee, and cocoa is followed by a blast of dark fruits and raspberries layered against a background of tannin, licorice, minerals, and a beautiful acidity. The result is a remarkably complex wine for the price. Its unusual combination of power and freshness makes it a spectacular match for grilled steaks or barbecued ribs on the back deck.

The 1907 is named for the year the appellation was first defined. It is produced by independent growers jointly with two cooperatives.

Basques immigrating to South America brought Tannat there, and it is now widely grown and has, in fact, become the national grape of Uruguay. The wines there are much fruitier and less tannic, and  although good, are very different than the beautiful Tannats from Madiran, especially the 1907.

1907 Madiran is a must have wine. Find it and buy it—lots of it. As good as it now, it’ll probably be even better next year.

To your health!

Are you an ABC? Try a V!

When summer’s warm weather comes, even die hard red drinkers turn to white wine. However, if you're sick of the over-oaked, buttery Chardonnays that flood the marketplace, even to the point of being an ABC (anything but Chardonnay) person, consider a different letter—V.

Viognier, a grape known for its floral aromatics and fruit-forward flavor profile, is grown in Condrieu and the Languedoc in France, and more recently in California and Australia. It is fairly low in acid and is often used as a blending grape to soften Shiraz in Australia. Great food wine, especially with Thai food. An excellent example is Triennes Sainte Fleur from southern France.

Verdicchio is grown primarily in the Marche region of Italy. It has a fairly marked acidity and a lemony citrus flavor profile with a definite almondy background. This wine can age and become more complex and layered. It is wonderful with seafood, chicken, or even pork. San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Vigneto di Gino is one of my all-time favorite white wines. Aged on the lees for nine months, it is more medium-bodied and complex than most Verdicchios. Fantastic with bacon wrapped scallops.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is from the area surrounding the town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. This wine is crisp and clean with good acidity and citrus fruit flavors. It's great with sushi. Cantine Gini is an excellent example. The palate is crisp and elegant with a hint of almond on the nose.

Vermentino is the major white grape of Sardinia. It produces wines of good acidity (despite the very hot growing conditions) and noticeable minerality without the citrus zing of many white wines.  Argiolas Costamolino is wonderful, with lots of fruit balanced with a beautiful minerality. It’s a beautiful match with fish and shellfish.

Verdejo is grown primarily in the Rueda region of Spain, although it originated in North Africa. It is also being grown successfully in Australia. This grape has aromas of tropical fruit with flavors of lime and green apple. An interesting example is Molly Dooker The Violinist. Molly Dooker means left-handed in Australia and this wine is typical of this estate…immense fruit extraction, huge flavor of tropical and citrus fruit.

The letter V rules in the summer. All of these wines are wonderful by themselves and with summertime fare at lunch and dinner. So get adventurous, forget the Chardonnay and the Pinot Grigio, and try some of these. You’ll be glad you did.

Memorable Memorial Day Wines

Today’s high is going to 94 degrees here in Denver. With Memorial Day Weekend approaching, I’ve got barbeque on my mind. Although beer is a great beverage choice, don’t overlook the many excellent wines that go beautifully with the bounty of the day. Lighter wines are perfect for sitting on the deck before dinner. Vinho Verde, the subject of my previous blog, is a great choice. The freshness of the fruit, the acidity, and the pétillance of the wine make it delightfully refreshing.

In my quest to write as little new material as possible, I’ll mention another good choice — Rosé, the subject of my blog prior to the one on Vinho Verde. The strawberry and melon flavors in a dry, light-bodied wine also perfectly complement many of the foods served, such as chicken, burgers, and salads.

For the red drinker, lighter style reds make more sense before food is served. Pinot Noir, Beaujolais (from the Gamay grape), and Schiava (an indigenous varietal from northern Italy) are all wonderful. I also suggest an extraordinary wine from Pic St Loup in the south of France — Le Loup Dans la Bergerie (literally, The Fox in the Sheep Pen). This is a medium bodied wine with awesome fruit and spice. It combines Grenache, Syrah and Merlot, is fairly easy to find, is inexpensive, and offers amazing depth of flavor.

While some white drinkers like oaky, buttery California Chardonnays, other varietals work better on a hot, sunny day. The citrusy zip of Pinot Grigio works well (Tieffenbruner is my favorite), as do the Spanish Albrinos (try Burgans). White Bordeaux from France and Soaves from Italy round out my favorites.

As the food arrives, there are myriad wines to choose from. Argentinian Malbec works great, no surprise since Argentinian barbeques are legendary. Renacer Punto Final and Durigutti are two of the best. California Zinfandel, such as Cosentino’s The Zin, are superb, as are Southern Italy’s Negroamaros (e.g. Menhir’s N Zero) and Nero D’Avolas. If you are doing steaks or burgers with blue cheese, try a nice easy going Cabernet like Rickshaw. If lamb is on the menu, the earthiness of the southern Cotes du Rhones makes these the perfect wines. Great examples are Domain Boisson Cairanne and Chapoutier Belleruche.

Whatever you drink, enjoy the holiday and drink responsibly (or let someone else drive home). Remember, great wines that make great food even better don’t have to break the bank. Cheers!

Word of the Day…Pétillant

Warm weather has arrived and it’s time—even for us devout red wine lovers—to look in different directions for great summertime wines, and also to see just how sharp your local wine merchant is. Go into the shop and tell him or her that you want a pétillant wine made from Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura, Avesso, Azal, or Alvarinho grapes. If you get the correct answer, you can reassure yourself he knows what he is doing, and you’ll also have a fun, refreshing wine—Vinho Verde.

Vinho Verde is from the Minho region in the far northwestern part of Portugal. It can be red, rosé, or white, although most are white. The name literally means “green wine” but translates as “young wine,” and is meant to be drunk young, preferably within a year of bottling. So if you find a 1999 Vinho Verde tucked away in a forgotten corner somewhere, it’s more like finding a 1999 Bud Light than a white Burgundy.

These wines are fresh and have fruity aromas and flavors. They are injected with carbonation much like a soft drink. So while not sparkling, they are “fizzy.” The official term is the French word pétillant (pay tee ya[n]), or slightly sparkling. Although the bubbles die fairly quickly, the nice acid zing keeps the wine refreshing.

Vinho Verde is great by itself on the back deck or by the pool, and is absolutely wonderful with shellfish. It’s also great with spicy food because it is low in alcohol (8-12%). Alcohol enhances the effects of hot spices, which is why a nice juicy Zinfandel from Lodi causes spicy to become painful, and why beer is the beverage of choice with Indian food. The final reason to buy lots of this wine is that it is ridiculously cheap, often in the $7.00 or $8.00 range. Low alcohol plus inexpensive means buy several bottles.

Thousands of producers of this wine exist, and often a dozen or so can be found in a single store. Here are a few that are particularly good:

Gazela is pale straw color with hints of brassy green and simple white fruit flavors with a hint of melon. The carbonation adds a bit of pizzazz to the crisp dry flavor. A great match for shellfish and great by itself.

 

Casal Garcia is one of the more fruity examples with peaches and citrus on both the nose and palate. It is particularly good with carnitas and guacamole.

Twin Vines has an interesting twist on the nose and palate—fresh nectarines and lime. Great especially on its own on the deck.

Don’t try to seriously contemplate these wines. They are just easy, fun wines to drink in the summer. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time.